Author: Lucy

Advice

Noisy Boiler? What the noises mean

Post author By Lucy
Post date December 1, 2022

Noisy boiler?

Some sounds are perfectly normal for a boiler to make when it’s working hard heating your home and hot water.

You can expect to hear some sounds from the pilot light being ignited, or the pump circulating water around your heating system – and these aren’t any cause for alarm.

But if you’ve suddenly noticed your boiler making unfamiliar, loud or strange noises, they could indicate a problem, and are a cause for concern.

If it sounds like an aeroplane is taking off in your utility room, or your boiler is banging, whistling, or gurgling, you’ll want to get to the bottom of what’s going on – and fast.

You should never ignore warning signs that your boiler is on the blink, because it could pose a safety risk. But even if it isn’t a dangerous fault, ignoring a problem will result in a more expensive repair bill, or worse, down the line.

In this guide, we explain some of the possible causes of some common, but abnormal noises, that might be coming from your boiler.

Where’s the noise coming from?

First things first, where’s the noise coming from? Whilst this might sound like a stupid question, sometimes noises may travel and echo through your heating system.

The noises might not be coming directly from the boiler itself, but rather from your pipes, radiators or a tank or cylinder.

It’s easier to identify the problem when you pinpoint precisely where the noise is coming from.

Check for a fault code

The next step is to check whether your boiler is showing a fault code.

Most modern boilers, particularly combi boilers, have a digital display which will show a boiler fault code when your boiler encounters a problem. The code helps to identify the cause of the problem and indicates what action should be taken.

All boilers display error codes differently, so depending on your model, the error code itself will vary.

If your boiler is showing a fault code, the first step to take, is to check your boiler’s manual.

Strange or unusual noises that your boiler might make

Here are the most common abnormal noises that you may hear from a boiler that has a problem:

Gurgling noises
Banging or whistling noises
Whooshing noises
Humming or vibrating noises
Aeroplane or droning noises

If you hear any of these noises coming from your boiler, read on and we’ll explain what might be causing them.

1. Noisy boiler: Gurgling boiler noises

If your boiler is making gurgling noises, this could be a sign that air has become trapped inside the heating system and is mixing with the water. Thankfully, this isn’t usually a big problem, and can sometimes be resolved by simply bleeding your radiators.

Fixing the problem: bleeding your radiators

To bleed your radiators, you need to start by turning your heating off and allowing your radiators to cool. Place towels on the floor under your radiators and put a container under the bleed valve.

Using your radiator key, release air from the bleed valve by slowly turning it anti-clockwise to release air. You should hear a hissing sound as the air escapes.

Keep releasing air from the valve until you can no longer hear air escaping and some water begins to trickle out. When this happens, close the valve quickly.

Once you have released the trapped air from your radiators, check your boiler pressure and switch the heating back on.

If bleeding your radiators has done the trick, that’s great. But if you’re still noticing gurgling sounds, you should contact a Gas Safe registered engineer for help.

2. Noisy boiler: Banging or whistling boiler noises

If your boiler is making banging or whistling sounds, chances are you’re experiencing ‘boiler kettling’. It’s called ‘kettling’ because it sounds like a kettle boiling, and it’s a common cause of a noisy boiler.

Not only does a kettling boiler sound like a boiling kettle, but it’s also much the same process behind it!

Despite the misleading name ‘boiler’, the water in your boiler shouldn’t actually boil. Water is typically heated to around 70 °C before being pumped around your home to be used by your radiators and hot taps.

But if the flow of water is slowed down for some reason, the water can heat too quickly and reach boiling point (100 °C).

If this happens, steam is generated, and air becomes trapped in your heating system. You’ll start hearing whistling, banging, popping and gurgling sounds.

There are several reasons why water might be being pumped around at a slower rate and reaching boiling point:

Possible cause of kettling: Limescale build up

Limescale build-up is one possible cause of kettling, and it’s a common problem for homes in hard water areas.

When limescale and ‘sludge’ accumulates in your heating system’s pipes, it will block the flow of water. By slowing the flow of water, it can be overheated by your boiler – causing kettling sounds.

Pipes blocked by limescale and sludge is also a common reason for your radiators developing cold spots.

Possible cause of kettling: Faulty thermostat

Another potential cause of kettling could be a faulty thermostat. A broken thermostat can give an incorrect reading to your boiler, causing it to over-heat the water.

Possible cause of kettling: Damaged pump

Another possible culprit is if your boiler pump is damaged. The boiler pump’s job is to push water through your heating system at the right speed to heat the water to the correct temperature.

If the pump develops a fault, it’s likely that water will be pushed at a slower rate, and will be overheated by the boiler.

How to stop boiler kettling

Boiler kettling is not something you can deal with yourself. It can be dangerous, and you should call a Gas Safe engineer to investigate what the cause of the kettling is.

If the cause of the kettling is limescale or sludge build-up, a chemical clean or power flush should do the trick. But if you have a faulty part, such as the pump, this may need to be replaced.

3. Noisy boiler: Whooshing boiler noises

Whooshing or vibrating noises from your boiler can be alarming, but thankfully the problem is usually with the air supply and sounds much worse than it is.

There are two common reasons for whooshing noises originating from a boiler.

Possible cause of whooshing noises: Air intake pipe blockages

The first common cause of whooshing sounds is a blocked air intake pipe. The air intake pipe is attached to the back of the boiler and leads outside of your home. If dirt and debris block the pipe, this can cause a whooshing sound.

Possible cause of whooshing noises: Air filter blockages

The second common cause of whooshing noises is a blocked air filter. Air filters are usually located inside your boiler. They can get blocked up by the buildup of dust and debris. If this happens, the passage of air is blocked, creating a whooshing sound.

How to stop whooshing noises

Whether the issue is with the air intake pipe or the air filter, you should call a Gas Safe engineer to fix the problem.

4. Noisy boiler: Humming or vibrating boiler noises

If your boiler is humming or vibrating, there are a few potential causes for this, including the following:

Possible cause of humming noises: Water pressure that is too high

High pressure is one of the biggest culprits of humming or vibrating noises. You can use the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler to check that the pressure is under 1.5 bar when the radiators are cold.

Possible cause of humming noises: The boiler’s pump is seized up or is running too fast

Another common culprit of a humming boiler is a problem with the boiler’s pump. If it has seized up or is operating too fast, it can cause vibrations and humming.

Possible causes of humming noises: A loose component such as the bearings on the boiler fan

Another issue that can create a humming noise is if the bearings within your boiler fan are on the way out.

How to stop humming noises

If the humming is caused by high pressure in your heating system, you may be able to resolve this by reducing the pressure by removing some of the water in the system.

If this doesn’t work, or it’s not a high pressure issue (you’ve checked your pressure gauge), you will need to contact a Gas Safe engineer for help.

5. Noisy boiler: Aeroplane or droning noises

One of the more disconcerting boiler noises is when your boiler sounds like a drone or aeroplane is taking off. The usual cause of this is a faulty pump.

How to stop aeroplane or droning noises

The most common resolution here is to have a broken boiler pump replaced. You should contact a Gas Safe engineer as soon as you hear your boiler making an aeroplane or a droning noise.

How to avoid boiler noises

Prevention is better than cure, so to avoid having problems in the future, you should ensure that you have your boiler serviced annually by a Gas Safe engineer.

Regular servicing reduces your chances of developing noisy faults because any required maintenance will be carried out proactively.

Research by Which? Found that around two thirds of boilers that are serviced every year never need a repair. This number drops dramatically as you increase the time between services, so spending a bit on a boiler service could potentially save you a much bigger repair bill in the future.

Final thoughts

Hopefully this article has helped you to understand your boiler a bit better, and you may have identified a possible cause of a strange new noise.

It may be that there’s a quick fix to your problem. But unfortunately, boilers don’t last forever.

If your boiler is in its golden years; is out of warranty; or always seems to be on the blink – it might be time to consider a boiler replacement.

Why not contact The Heating People to book your free survey?

Useful Links:

Vaillant: Why is my boiler making strange noises?

Worcester Bosch: Boiler gurgling sounds

Advice

Steps to your new boiler

Post author By Lucy
Post date November 28, 2022

Steps to your new boiler…

If you’ve read our blog: Does my boiler need replacing? And you’ve decided that now is the time for an efficient new boiler – you might be wondering what’s involved.

With boilers lasting between 10-15 years, it may have been a very long time since you last went through a boiler installation process – if ever!

But don’t worry, The Heating People are here to help!

We’ve put together this handy guide to explain everything you need to know about getting a new boiler, from your first contact with us, to each of the tasks involved. This will help you to know what to expect, and what you’re actually paying for.

And if you’ve heard that gas boilers are being ‘banned’ and are wondering whether you can still have one installed, you should read our informative guide on this here.

But in short, yes you can still have a gas boiler installed! The government’s ambition is to phase out the installation of new gas boilers (for hydrogen ones or heat-pumps) in 2035.

Steps to your new boiler: Finding the right installer

The first and most important step in getting a boiler replacement is to find an expert engineer that you can trust. This task is crucial for two main reasons.

Firstly, you need to make sure that your new installation is safe.

We all know that gas can be dangerous, and so it’s vital that any gas work carried out in your home is done so legally and safely.

The Heating People are Gas Safe registered and carry out all work to the highest industry standards.

Secondly, the installer you choose is vital because they are the number one contributor to heating system efficiency, far more than the products selected.

Your boiler is only going to be as good as the engineer who installs it.

Unfortunately, there are lots of ‘engineers’ out there who will guess what size boiler you need by counting radiators, and then will commission it in such a way that it will never meet the efficiency potential promised on its box.

The Heating People install boilers the right way, following the industry standard under Part L of the Energy Efficiency Regulations. These regulations provide guidance on the conservation of fuel and power under The Building Regulations Act 2010.

As well as following energy efficiency best practice, we are proud to be certified Heat Geeks. This means that whatever system you have, we understand emitter sizing, pipe sizing, hydraulic layout and principles to obtain the highest efficiencies from your heating system.

If you choose to get a boiler replacement with us, this is the process that you can expect…

Steps to your new boiler with The Heating People

A new boiler installation involves many tasks. These cover the lead up to the installation and the installation itself.

Although all homes and heating systems are different, this is a rough guide to all of the tasks and work included in the cost of a boiler installation with The Heating People:

1. Steps to your new boiler: First contact

Once you’ve decided that The Heating People are the right installers for you, you’ll need to contact one of our friendly team to get started. You can choose to contact us through our website; social media; telephone; or by email.

We’ll ask you some simple questions about your current system and what you’re hoping to achieve with your new one. We’ll then get you booked in for your free survey at a time and date that suits you.

We’ll send you out booking reminders by email and by text, because we know how busy you are!

2. Steps to your new boiler: Survey

Your expert engineer will attend at the time and date agreed, to carry out a survey of your home.

During this visit your engineer will ask you some simple questions about your wants and needs; will review your existing system with you; and discuss the options available to you.

Your engineer will also take some technical measurements such as water flow rate, and will measure your home for an estimated heat loss calculation. This will help us to determine the correct boiler for your home.

Many boiler installation companies throw boilers on the wall after using crude online ‘calculators’ or simply counting radiators. But this is inaccurate and will result in an oversized and inefficient system.

The Heating People take the guesswork out of boiler installation, and install boilers the right way, using heat loss calculations.

This allows us to recommend the most energy efficient options for you. This will help to save you money, whilst helping you to reduce your carbon footprint.

3. Steps to your new boiler: Quotation

Following the free survey of your home, The Heating People will send you a fixed price quotation, with options to allow you to choose a boiler that’s right for you.

We believe in transparency and will never charge you more than we quote.

Once you’re happy, you can confirm acceptance of your quotation either by clicking the acceptance button on your quotation or by contacting us by email or by phone.

4. Steps to your new boiler: Booking

Once you’ve decided you want to go ahead with the works in your quotation, we’ll arrange a convenient date to complete the work.

The Heating People require a fixed price deposit of £200 upon acceptance of your quotation in order to secure your installation date, this will be deducted from your final invoice.

We’ll send you an email confirmation of your booking and an SMS reminder of your booking the day before your installation.

5. Steps to your new boiler: Arrival of the engineer at your home

Once your heating engineer arrives to install your new boiler, they will discuss the planned work, to ensure that everyone is happy with the plans. They will explain where they will need access to, and for how long, so that you can plan your day.

6. Steps to your new boiler: Protecting your home

Your engineer will put down floor coverings in all work areas and transit routes, so that you can rest assured that your carpets will be protected from any debris.

7. Steps to your new boiler: Draining your old system

Your engineer may need to switch off your water for a short period while they drain down your old system, but they’ll explain this when they arrive.

8. Steps to your new boiler: Test the gas for leaks

Your engineer will complete a let by and gas tightness test to ensure that your gas emergency control valve is working correctly, and that there are no leaks on your gas pipework.

9. Steps to your new boiler: Removal of the old boiler

Your engineer will remove your old boiler and any old redundant equipment, so you don’t need to worry about disposing of this.

10. Steps to your new boiler: Flush and clean

Depending on what was discussed during the quotation stage, your engineer will use the flushing method agreed upon, to ensure that your heating system is clean for your new boiler.

This will help to preserve the guarantee on your new boiler; extend the life of your boiler; help to prevent future breakdowns; and improve the efficiency of your heating system.

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11. Steps to your new boiler: Upgrade and change pipework if required

In order to fit your new boiler properly, your engineer may need to alter or upgrade pipework. The Heating People only use quality products. We’ll only use copper or professional press fit systems, we don’t use DIY style push-fit systems.

12. Steps to your new boiler: Making good

When your new boiler’s flue is in a new position, your engineer will make good the existing flue hole, with bricks that are a close match to your home.

13. Steps to your new boiler: Fitting the boiler

Your engineer will then install your new boiler, the boiler flue, and make all the pipework connections.

14. Steps to your new boiler: Controls

Your engineer will then fit controls and accessories as agreed, such as: temperature sensors; thermostats; timers; system filters; and filling loops.

15. Steps to your new boiler: Commissioning of the system

Your engineer will then fill; test; set to work; and commission your system; filling out all commissioning test results in your benchmark log book. This will document all safety test results and confirm that the installation complies with safety regulations.

16. Steps to your new boiler: Handover

Your engineer will then complete a handover with you when all the work is complete. This ensures that you are as informed as possible on how to operate the boiler, how to use all the controls, and how to get the best efficiency from your system.

17. Steps to your new boiler: Register the boiler

Once The Heating People have installed your new boiler, we will register it with the manufacturers to activate its guarantee and we will notify your local building control via the Gas Safe Register.

We can offer guarantees of up to 14 years on our boilers.

This means that should anything go wrong with your boiler within that time period, the cost of repairs is covered.

You’ll need to get your boiler serviced annually to maintain this guarantee.

How long does it take to install a new boiler?

How long your boiler replacement will take, will vary depending on what work is needed, if your boiler is moving location or if you have a like-for-like boiler. It usually takes between 1-3 days.

Final thoughts…

Getting a new boiler is a big investment, so you’ll want to get it right. We hope that you’ve found this article useful in understanding what to expect during a boiler replacement.

For tailored advice on replacing or upgrading your heating system, please contact one of our team at The Heating People, who will be happy to help you.

Useful links:

Heat Geek website

Worcester Bosch

Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000

Post author By Lucy
Post date November 24, 2022

The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000…

Finding your perfect boiler can be a daunting task. Especially when manufacturers release new models, all promising to be better than their previous models, and the competition.

And Worcester Bosch have done it again with the Greenstar 4000 – released in May 2021.

If you’re wondering how this new boiler is different from their popular i series, then read on. The Heating People are here to help!

We’re experts at helping you to choose the perfect boiler for your needs; which will keep you and your family comfortable for years to come; whilst also helping you to save money on your energy bills.

And although we’re Worcester Bosch Accredited Installers; we’re not tied to Worcester (in fact we’re accredited installers of many boiler brands). And we always provide completely impartial, expert advice.

In today’s blog we’re going to run you through some of the key differences between the new Greenstar 4000; and its predecessors. But for tailored advice on your specific needs, call us today to book your free survey.

Who is Worcester Bosch?

We reckon that even if you’re not familiar with their boilers; you’ll have at least heard of the manufacturer, Worcester Bosch.

Which? Has helped them to become a household name by awarding them the highest brand score for nine years running.

In the Which? Best Boiler Brands Report in 2020, Which? Said:

‘Worcester Bosch performs so consistently well in our annual reliability surveys that its name is synonymous with dependability.’ Quite the accolade.

And it’s not just Which? Who rates them. YouGov have ranked Worcester Bosch as the UK’s best value boiler brand; the most recommended boiler brand; and the best quality boiler brand.

Worcester was originally founded in 1962 and became part of the Worldwide Bosch Group in 1996.

They’ve built up a solid reputation for quality over the last 50 years; boasting a large product range offering reliability and fantastic warranties.

Worcester Bosch doesn’t just produce gas and oil boilers. Their product range also includes hot water cylinders, and renewable technologies such as heat pumps; hydrogen ready boilers; and solar water heating systems, as well as controls and accessories.

Introducing the new Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000

New for 2021, the Greenstar 4000 is the new and improved successor to the hugely popular Greenstar i.

Worcester describe the Greenstar 4000 as being ‘instantly familiar and yet totally transformed’.

Because it features many of the much-loved features of the i series; whilst boasting improvements in speed and ease of installation; commissioning and servicing; alongside improvements in efficiency and control.

And the good news? Worcester have priced it the same as its predecessor.

Key features of the Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000

Available in combi and system boilers with a range of power outputs to suit your home and lifestyle.

The Greenstar 4000 is available in 25 kw and 30kw combi boilers (as with the old i series).

You can also opt for a system boiler in 12kW, 15kW, 18kW, 21kW and 24kW outputs.

But don’t worry about choosing the correct type or size of boiler; The Heating People will match you with your perfect boiler after completing a heat loss calculation for your home.

You might like our related blogs: Pros and cons of combi boilers and Pros and cons of system boilers.

The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 is energy efficient

The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 is A-rated for energy efficiency, with an impressive 94% efficiency.

And by adding a Bosch EasyControl internet-connected Smart controller; you can further boost your heating system efficiency to an impressive 98% (also known as A+).

But why should you care about energy efficiency?

Well, boilers are rated on a scale of A to G. With A (like the Greenstar 4000) being the most energy efficient.

The more energy efficient they are; the less wear and tear there is on their component parts, and the less gas they consume.

If your current boiler is at the lower end of the scale; then your boiler could be wasting more than 30p in every £1 that you spend on fuel. So the savings can be big!

Not only that, it’s also a great way to reduce your carbon footprint. Because boilers account for 60% of the carbon dioxide emissions in a gas heated home.

The Greenstar 4000 has a 1:10 modulation range that reduces gas consumption; energy bills; and wear and tear on components.

The 25 and 30kW combi can modulate down to 3kW and the 12kW system to just 1.9kW!

So, as well as being environmentally friendly; this can save you a lot of money on your energy bills – What’s not to like?!

The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 features SimpleSwitch technology

Worcester Bosch have designed their new Greenstar 4000 to be a ‘SimpleSwitch’ for customers who have an existing Greenstar i; i Junior; or Si boiler (2005-2015 models).

This is an advantage because it makes for easier and faster installation. Since the fixing points, pipe centres, and wall-frame are designed to require minimum re-work.

But if you don’t have an older Worcester Bosch model; don’t worry – you’ll still be able to have the Greenstar 4000 installed.

SimpleSwitch just means that the new Greenstar 4000 physically fits within the i footprint of its earlier boiler ranges; making replacements more straightforward.

The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 comes with a hefty guarantee

Worcester Bosch provides hefty 10-year warranties. So that you can have peace of mind that should anything go wrong, you’ll be covered.

However, this is only when the boiler is installed by a Worcester Accredited Installer, such as The Heating People.

You’ll also need to have your boiler serviced annually by a Gas Safe engineer to maintain your guarantee.

The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 is stylish

The Greenstar 4000 is Worcester Bosch’s mid-range boiler, sitting between the 2000 and 8000 boilers.

What you can’t fail to notice about the 4000; is that it’s very similar in appearance to the sleek Worcester Bosch Greenstar 8000 LifeStyle boiler. But is significantly cheaper.

With its curved edges, and LCD digital display; it’s a more modern look compared to the traditional white box in the corner.

Another bonus is that with both the front and right-hand side panels being removable; it’s easy to access the internal components of the boiler for maintenance and servicing.

The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 has a pioneering control display

The user-friendly LCD display provides you with complete control of the boiler and heating system; with easy to use push control buttons.

It also features wireless technology; allowing you to connect with the Bosch EasyControl to control your boiler remotely from your smartphone.

The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 has hot water flow rates up to 12.3 l/min.

The Greenstar 4000 can produce up to 12.3 litres of hot water out of your tap in a minute. And operates extremely well in low water pressure areas, ensuring powerful and warm showers.

With full flow rates from just 1 bar of pressure; they are a great choice if you live in a high rise building or area with low mains pressure.

The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 has intelligent auto-filling

If you’ve been irritated by problems caused by high or low boiler pressure in the past; you might be pleased to learn that the Greenstar 4000 has an ‘intelligent filling system.’

This automatically monitors and adjusts system pressure; reducing the need for you to have to top up, or reduce your boiler pressure.

The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 has frost-protection

The Worcester Greenstar range has built-in frost protection.

This means that the boiler will turn on when the internal temperature drops below 8°C, and will fire up at 5°C. This will raise the temperature of the boiler up to 12°C – thereby preventing the risk of freezing.

The Greenstar 4000 also has a large 500 ml condensate siphon to reduce the risk of freezing in cold weather.

The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 has quieter operation

If you like your peace and quiet, the Greenstar 4000 may just be for you. It’s one of the quietest combi boilers available, making it easy to live with.

The 4000 is 10% quieter than the Greenstar i, which has been awarded the Quiet Mark.

How does the the Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 compare to the i series?

But what we really want to know is, how the Greenstar 4000 compares to its predecessor, the best-selling Greenstar i.

Prior to the introduction of the Greenstar 4000, Worcester’s most popular combi boiler was the Greenstar i. The Greenstar i is no longer in production, but there are still some in the supply chain.

The Greenstar i was a very popular boiler because it suited small to medium sized homes with one bathroom; and the controls were straightforward.

The 4000 is an improvement on the i in terms of the speed and ease of installation; commissioning and servicing; alongside improvements in efficiency and control.

The main differences are the new and improved sleeker look, and the compact size.

The combi boiler options also offer a higher flow rate of 10.2 and 12.3 litres a minute; which is good news for your showers.

You might like our related blog: Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 versus Greenstar i.

Final thoughts…

We hope you’ve found this blog helpful.

For a free, fixed price quotation, call The Heating People today to book your survey.

Useful Links:

YouGov Worcester Bosch

Which? reviews of Worcester Bosch

Worcester Bosch website: Greenstar 4000

Worcester Bosch one page consumer guide on Greenstar 4000

Quiet Mark

Advice

Landlord heating responsibilities

Post author By Lucy
Post date November 21, 2022

Landlord heating responsibilities…

Warm tenants are happy tenants. But if you’re a landlord; there’s more than your tenant’s happiness to consider when it comes to heating your rental property.

Unfortunately, faulty boilers and heating systems can cause serious problems for landlords.

At worst, dangerous gas appliances pose an immediate threat to life in terms of risk of fires; explosions; and carbon monoxide poisoning.

Every year there are around 60 deaths from accidental carbon monoxide poisoning in England and Wales. Less dangerous, but nevertheless costly problems include damage to property caused by escaped water.

But as well as these safety and financial implications, there are legal ones too.

As a landlord, you have a legal responsibility to provide and maintain the heating and hot water for your tenants. And to ensure your property is safe, and energy efficient.

In this blog, we take a closer look at landlord heating responsibilities; so that you can be sure that you understand what your obligations are.

What does the law say?

The key legal obligations on landlords when it comes to heating are that:

1. Landlords must provide access to heating and hot water – The Landlord and Tenant Act 1985;

Under section 11 of the Landlord and Tenant Act 1985; as a landlord you are responsible for keeping the following in repair and proper working order – supply of:

water;
gas;
electricity;
sanitation (including basins, sinks, baths and toilets);
heating;
hot water.

Unless your tenant has damaged the facilities; it’s your responsibility to ensure that the property has heating and hot water at all times.

It’s a hazard to have no heating and hot water, especially in winter. And if no alternative source is provided.

A 2016 report by The Energy Saving Trust found that 48% of renters are finding home heating a struggle. And frankly, that’s not good enough.

Minimum acceptable standards are that bedrooms should be able to maintain at least 18°C; and 21°C in living rooms when the temperature outside is minus 1°C.

Local Authorities can force you to upgrade your property under the Housing Act 2004.

2. Landlords are responsible for repairs, and must keep the heating in proper working order

As a landlord, it’s your responsibility to maintain and repair the heating in your rental property; under Section 11 (c) of the Housing Act 1985.

Some landlords try to avoid this responsibility by including clauses in their tenancy agreements. But such clauses will be void.

Your tenant is responsible for reporting any issues with the heating and hot water supply to you. And it’s your duty to respond within a reasonable time (see below).

3. Landlords must react to any heating problems that may occur within a few days after the tenants’ notification

Obviously, you can’t be liable to carry out any repairs until you’ve been told about the issue by your tenant.

But once they have notified you of an issue, you need to carry out the repair within a ‘reasonable time’.

There is no definition of what constitutes a ‘reasonable time’. Instead, several factors will be taken into account, for example:

the extent of the disrepair;
what time of year it is;
the age (and health) of residents living in the property;
availability of replacement parts;
Whether any alternative heat sources have been provided.

You’ll need to react faster to problems with the heating or hot water supply; when this affects families with small children.

Failure to respond to notice of disrepair means that you will be breaching your tenancy agreement on two fronts; keeping the property in repair AND free from hazards (see below).

4. Landlords must keep the property free from hazards

Maintaining central heating and hot water is an important part of keeping your property free from hazards.

The Housing Health & Safety Rating System (HHSRS) introduced by the Housing Act 2004 came into effect on April 6th 2006.

The HHSRS provides guidance about hazards under section 9 of the Housing Act 2004.

The underlying principle of the HHSRS is that any residential premises should provide a safe and healthy environment for any potential occupier or visitor.

To satisfy this principle, your rental property should be designed; constructed; and maintained; with non-hazardous materials and should be free from both unnecessary and avoidable hazards.

The HHSRS introduced 29 categories of housing hazard. In terms of heating, you should be aware of the following particular hazards:

Physiological hazards:
- damp and mould growth;
- excess cold or heat;
- asbestos;
- carbon monoxide and fuel combustion products;
- uncombusted fuel gas;

Infection hazards
- hygiene, Sanitation and Water Supply
- sanitation and drainage
- Water supply

Accident hazards
- Fires, Burns and Scalds
- Electrical hazards
- Fire
- Flames
- Explosions
- Position and operability of amenities

5. Landlords must arrange an annual gas safety check of all gas appliances in the property

Under the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998; as amended by the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) (Amendment) Regulations 2018; you are under a statutory duty for the safety of your tenants in relation to gas safety.

By law you must:

Repair and maintain gas pipework, flues and appliances in safe condition;
Ensure an annual gas safety check on each appliance and flue;
Keep a record of each safety check.

Annual Gas Safety checks are vital because if any of your gas appliances have been improperly fitted; repaired; or maintained; or any of their vents; flues; or chimneys have become blocked; they can pose a risk to your tenant’s life.

Dangerous gas appliances pose risk of gas leaks; fires and explosions; and carbon monoxide poisoning.

If any of your gas appliances aren’t burning their fuel as they should; they can produce a highly poisonous gas called carbon monoxide (CO). This gas is responsible for around 60 deaths per year in England and Wales.

Thankfully all these dangers can be easily avoided with a gas safety check once a year; by a Gas Safe registered engineer.

Only Gas Safe registered engineers can legally fit, fix, and service gas appliances. This requirement ensures that engineers who are working on gas hold valid and current qualifications.

Rest assured, all our engineers at The Heating People are Gas Safe registered.

What happens during a Gas Safety check for landlords?

During a gas safety check, our engineers will check that your appliances are:

Properly set and adjusted so the gas burns correctly;
Are suitable for the room it’s located in;
Is physically stable, securely fitted and properly connected to the gas pipework.

We will also check that:

There’s an adequate and permanent air supply that’s suitable for the appliance installed;
All safety devices are functioning properly;
Any flues, chimneys and air vents are operating correctly.

This can be extended to a full gas installation safety check, in which we will:

Check the installation is in good condition by visually inspecting the pipework as far as reasonably practicable;
Test the gas pipework to make sure there are no leaks.

When we have finished the safety checks, we provide you with a Landlord Gas Safety Record.

You’ll then be able to give a copy of this record to your tenants; so that they know that their appliances meet the appropriate safety standards.

The law on gas safety is enforced by the Health and Safety Executive (HSE). And there are severe penalties for non-compliance that can be imposed and deaths can result in manslaughter charges for landlords and agents.

Noncompliance is a criminal offence and courts can impose unlimited fines and custodial sentences.

6. Landlords should bleed the radiators at the start of the tenancy agreement. Once occupied, bleeding radiators becomes the tenants’ responsibility

In general, bleeding radiators is classed as day-to-day maintenance.

It’s good practice for you to make sure that the radiators are bled at the start of the tenancy. Tenants are responsible for bleeding them thereafter.

7. Landlords must ensure that their property meets the current minimum energy efficiency requirements

The Domestic Minimum Energy Efficiency Standard (MEES) Regulations set a minimum energy efficiency level for domestic private rented properties.

Landlords must ensure that their Energy Performance Certificates (EPCs) have a minimum rating of E.

An EPC rates your property’s energy efficiency from A (most efficient) to G (least efficient).

It’s valid for ten years, but if you don’t have one when you need one; you’ll face a fixed penalty notice of £200.

Modern boilers have an energy efficiency rating of at least 92% under the Boiler Plus regulations. But if you have an old heating system, it’s probably time to look at a replacement.

The government has recently published an energy efficiency proposal for the private rental sector. The energy performance standard of privately-rented properties will be raised to an EPC level C by 1 April 2025 for new tenancies and by 1 April 2028 for all tenancies.

Ypu might like to read our related blogs: 6 Top tips for buying a new boiler ; and How to choose an energy efficient boiler.

General tips for landlords

Once you’ve checked that you’re complying with all the relevant legislation; there are some general maintenance tips that you can follow.

These will help to avoid heating problems in your rental properties:

Tip: make sure external pipes are well insulated

If you have an external condensate pipe or an outside tap at your property; make sure it has a foam sleeve around it to prevent any issues when the temperatures drop.

A frozen condensate pipe will cause your boiler to shut down, meaning no heating and hot water for your tenants!

Tip: Look at your windows and doors

If you have old windows and doors on your property, it might be time to consider investing in an upgrade. Draughty windows and doors will make your property less energy efficient; and makes it harder to keep the property warm and dry.

Tip: Have your chimneys swept

If your property has a fireplace or log burner; you need to have your chimney swept at least once per year. This will ensure that carbon deposits are removed, minimising the risk of a chimney fire.

Check extractor fans

The last thing that you want is mould and damp forming in your kitchens and bathrooms. Check that extractor fans are working properly to avoid warm air causing damp; mould; and mildew problems.

Encourage your tenants to use the heating

By encouraging your tenants to use the central heating (and leaving it on low if they go away for a few days) you’ll help to avoid damp forming, and pipes bursting. It also means that any issues can be reported to you promptly.

Test smoke alarms and CO detectors

It’s important that you test smoke alarms and CO alarms at least once per year. There must be a working smoke alarm on each floor of the property.

A CO detector is required by law in any room with a solid fuel appliance.

Tip: Check your insurance

Ensure that you have a good insurance policy that is designed for landlords. This gives you the peace of mind that if a problem (such as a burst pipe) should arise, you’re covered.

Final thoughts…

We hope you’ve found this blog helpful.

If you want us to help you meet your responsibilities as a landlord; call one of our friendly team who will be happy to help.

Useful Links:

The Housing Act 2004

The Housing Act 1988

Government advice on renting and repairs

Shelter: Landlord and tenant responsibilities for repairs

Government advice: How to rent a safe home

Boiler Plus factsheet

Advice

No hot water? What to do next

Post author By Lucy
Post date November 17, 2022

If your heating is on, but you’ve got no hot water, it’s easy to get into a panic.

We take having hot water for granted and it can seem like a nightmare when it suddenly goes off. And that’s understandable – nobody wants a cold bath or shower, especially in the middle of winter!

But although it’s a frustrating and inconvenient problem, it’s not uncommon. And there’s often a simple fix.

So, before calling an engineer, it’s worth making sure that your water woes aren’t down to something as simple as a family member accidentally turning down your thermostat!

To help you get back up and running as soon as possible, we’ve created this handy checklist.

By following the simple checks below, you might be able to get your hot water back without having to call for help.

Checks to make when you have no hot water

If your hot water isn’t working, there are a few simple checks that you can make to isolate the problem and put it right:

1. No hot water: Check your boiler for a fault code

Forgive us for pointing out the obvious, but the first thing to do when your hot water goes off, is to check that your boiler’s working.

Modern combi boilers have displays that show error messages or fault codes when the boiler runs into a problem.

All combi boilers display different fault codes depending on the model. So, you’ll need to check the manual that came with your boiler to find out what the code is telling you and what you need to do to address it.

Some common fault codes which might be displayed if you have no hot water include:

A low pressure fault;
No gas, or insufficient gas pressure;
No ignition;
Condensate pipe is blocked (frozen)

If your boiler isn’t displaying a code, or the display panel isn’t showing anything at all, that leads us on to our second check…

2. No hot water: Check you still have gas, electricity, and water supply

Some hot water problems are not actually caused by a fault with your boiler. It could be that there is a problem with the supply of your electricity, gas and water.

So it’s a good idea to eliminate any potential problems with your utilities first. This is very simple to do.

To check your electricity supply, you can start by looking at your boiler’s control panel. If it isn’t displaying anything, check whether other appliances in your home are getting any power. Check your fuse box to make sure that a switch hasn’t tripped and cut power to your system.

To check your gas supply, try using another gas appliance, such as the hob on your cooker. If this still works, it isn’t a problem with your gas supply.

To check your water supply, just turn on a tap to check that you’re still getting water.

Once you’ve eliminated problems with your electricity, gas and water supply, you can move on to other checks.

3. No hot water: Check your boiler’s timer

If your boiler’s hot water is controlled by a timer, this may be the cause of your problem.

You might be fooled into thinking you have no hot water at all, when, your timer’s just set to come on at an unexpected time.

Something as simple as the clocks changing, a power cut, or an accidental knock might have altered your timer’s settings without you knowing. So, check that the clock and timer are set to the right time.

Adjusting your timer may be a very simple fix to the dreaded no-hot-water problem.

4. No hot water: Check your thermostat

Similarly, to checking your timer, you should also check your boiler’s thermostat.

The thermostat is a control used to regulate the temperature in your heating system. If this isn’t working, or has been set incorrectly, it could be the cause of your hot water problem.

You might have an analogue mechanical thermostat that operates with a dial, mounted on a wall in your main living area or hall. Or, you may have a more modern digital thermostat that you can also control from your smartphone.

But whichever sort of thermostat you have, you should check that it hasn’t accidentally been switched to ‘Off’.

You can test whether your thermostat is working by setting the temperature to a higher value than normal. Hopefully, you’ll hear the boiler firing up, and you’ve resolved the issue.

But if your thermostat fails to respond, you’ll need to get help from a heating engineer.

5. No hot water: Check the thermostat on your cylinder (if you have one!)

If you have a heat-only or system boiler, you will have a hot water cylinder for storing your hot water.

Your cylinder may have a thermostat attached. If there isn’t a thermostat on your cylinder, don’t worry – this just means that the temperature of the water is controlled by your boiler thermostat.

Check your cylinder for a thermostat. If it has one, check that it’s set to the correct temperature and timings. If not, adjusting it might resolve your problem.

6. No hot water: Check whether your boiler needs resetting

Ah – the classic: have you tried switching it off and on again?!

The power cycle doesn’t just work for computers though, it can work for boilers too!

Your boiler is a complex and hard-working appliance that’s working 24/7, and occasionally it will benefit from a reset.

Some boilers have a reset switch that you can operate yourself but be careful to follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If your reset button is inside the boiler’s casing, you’ll need to leave this to a Gas Safe engineer.

Hopefully, resetting your boiler will give it the boost it needs to get your hot water up and running again.

7. No hot water: Check your pilot light

Another reason why you might not be getting any hot water is if there’s no pilot light on the boiler or the boiler pilot light keeps going out.

The pilot light ignites the gas, which heats the water in your boiler. So, if it’s gone out, you’ll need to reset it following your manufacturer’s instructions.

If it keeps blowing out, it’ll need to be checked by an engineer.

8. No hot water: Check your boiler’s pressure

If you have a sealed system or combi boiler in your home, low water pressure might be to blame for your lack of hot water.

Modern boilers require constant water pressure in order to work properly. Low boiler pressure can cause your system to cut out, preventing your central heating from working.

The good news is that it’s easy to identify low pressure, and you can sometimes address it yourself.

As a rule of thumb, your boiler’s ideal water pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bars. To check this, you need to look at the pressure gauge which is located on the front of your boiler.

A digital pressure gauge will flash to alert you if your boiler has a pressure problem.

But if you have a hydraulic pressure gauge, you want the indicator needle to be in the green zone, between 1 and 1.5 bar.

When the pressure is below 0.5 bar, water has been lost from the system and needs to be replaced.

All boilers are different, so you should check your manual to see if you can re-pressurise your boiler yourself, using the filling loop.

If in doubt, you should contact a Gas Safe heating engineer for assistance.

9. No hot water: Check your pipes aren’t frozen

If your hot water has suddenly gone off when it’s freezing outside, there’s a good chance that your boiler’s condensate pipe has frozen.

The condensate pipe runs from the back of your boiler to an outside wall of your house. It’s responsible for taking waste from your boiler out into a drain.

If your condensate pipe freezes, your boiler will automatically shut off for safety reasons, leaving you without heating or hot water.

Thankfully, a frozen condensate pipe isn’t a big problem. You can easily thaw it out and get your hot water flowing again.

To melt the ice, you need to pour, warm (not boiling!) water down the length of the condensate pipe. Once the pipe is thawed, you should rest your boiler.

Wait a few minutes and check your water. If you have fully thawed your frozen condensate pipe, everything should be working as normal.

10. No hot water: Check for leaks

A leak somewhere in your heating system can cause the pressure to drop, which can stop your hot water from working.

And just because you’re not wading through water, doesn’t mean you don’t have a leak! Some leaks can be very small, resulting in a more gradual drop in pressure.

Have a look around your home for telltale signs of a water leak. You should look for damp patches in the following places:

On ceilings;
Around your boiler;
Close to pipes;
Beneath your radiators.

If you find a leak, you’ll need to contact a Gas Safe engineer for assistance.

11. No hot water: Check your diverter valve

If your radiators are getting warm, but you have no hot water, there’s a chance that there’s a problem with your boiler’s diverter valve.

A key component in a combi boiler is the diverter valve. It allows your boiler to switch between hot water for your taps and your central heating. If it fails, then one of those systems is going to lose out.

If your diverter valve has developed a fault, it could be stuck in the central heating position, resulting in your lack of hot water.

Unfortunately, a problem with the diverter valve is not something you can deal with yourself. You’ll need to call a Gas Safe registered engineer to fix it or replace the part altogether.

Will I need a new boiler?

If you’ve experienced a sudden problem with your hot water, it’s very unlikely you’ll need a new boiler. As you can see from above, there is often a cheap and quick fix to the dreaded no-hot-water situation.

But if your problems with hot water have been more gradual and subtle, it might be worth considering a boiler replacement.

If you never seem to have enough hot water for baths and showers, then it could be that you have the wrong size or type of boiler for your needs.

It’s definitely worth getting a heating engineer to look at your system and advise you on whether you would benefit from a new boiler.

You might like our related blogs: 6 Top tips for buying a new boiler and How to choose an energy efficient boiler.

Conclusion

We hope that this guide has been useful in helping you to troubleshoot some of the simpler causes of having no hot water.

As with all things, prevention is better than cure. The best way to avoid the unwelcome surprise of a cold shower, is to have your heating system regularly maintained by a Gas Safe engineer.

Having your boiler serviced annually will keep your boiler running smoothly and efficiently and will catch any minor issues before they develop into more expensive ones.

A survey in 2021 by Which? found that only around three in ten boilers that are serviced annually have needed a repair in their first six years. This doubles to around six in ten boilers if the boiler is only serviced every two to five years.

So, get booked in for that service!

Useful Links:

Viessmann: Guide to no hot water

Advice

10 Tips for keeping your home warm this winter

Post author By Lucy
Post date November 14, 2022

10 Tips for keeping your home warm this winter

It’s getting nippy out, and as forecasters predict that temperatures will be dropping below freezing in parts of the country; many people will be experiencing the winter blues.

A survey by The Energy Saving Trust (EST) found that 40% of people are avoiding switching on their heating; due to fears about energy bills. Whilst 33% reported that they can’t make their home as warm as they’d like.

To help you, we’ve put together this list of 10 tips for keeping your home warm this winter; whilst keeping your energy bills low.

1. Tips for keeping your home warm: Get your boiler serviced

You wouldn’t dream of driving your car without a valid MOT; and you should think of your annual boiler service in the same way.

Not only does your service ensure that your boiler remains Gas Safe, but it’s also vital in avoiding breakdowns.

Issues are most likely to arise in cold weather if your boiler hasn’t been looked after properly. In fact, a survey conducted by the Gas Safe Register; found that the number one cause of boiler breakdowns in winter is having missed a boiler service.

Despite this, the survey also found that a worrying 24% of homeowners admitted to never having had their boiler serviced; or not having it serviced as often as they should.

This is scary, because unsafe gas appliances pose risk of fires, gas leaks, explosions and carbon monoxide poisoning!

So, if you want to keep your family safe; and avoid a breakdown when you need your heating most; it’s a good idea to schedule a boiler service before the cold weather hits.

Remember that only Gas Safe registered engineers can legally fit, fix, and service gas appliances.

Rest assured, that here at The Heating People, all of our engineers are Gas Safe registered for working on gas.

2. Tips for keeping your home warm: Draught-proof your home

The last thing you want when you’re paying to heat your home; is for all the lovely warm air to be escaping, and the frosty air to be coming in.

But that’s precisely what happens if you don’t draught-proof your home.

Draught-proofing is one of the cheapest and most effective ways to save energy in your home. By saving your warm air; you’ll not only feel snug and warm, but you’ll need to use less energy to heat your home.

According to the Energy Saving Trust (EST), draught-proofing around windows and doors could save you around £20 a year.

And if you have an open chimney; draught-proofing your chimney when you’re not using it could save around £15 a year.

Whilst you can get a professional draught-proofing course for your whole house; there are some DIY quick fixes you can use to minimise your draughts:

Use heavy curtains on windows.
Buy draught-proofing strips to stick around the window frame and fill the gap between the window and the frame.
Use a letterbox flap or brush.
Place draught excluders at the bottom of your doors.
Buy a chimney draught excluder to use when your fireplace is not in use.
Use strip insulation around loft hatches.

3. Tips for keeping your home warm: Top up your loft and wall insulation

As well as losing heat through gaps around your windows and doors; heat also escapes through your roof and walls through conduction and convection.

According to the EST, a typical house with no insulation will lose 33% of heat through walls; and 25% through the roof. And although the majority of homes have some insulation, many don’t have enough.

Loft and wall insulation works by reducing the amount of heat lost from the fabric of your building; reducing the amount of energy you need to heat your home, and saving you money on your energy bills. The thicker your insulation is, the more effective it will be at stopping the heat from leaving your house.

So what savings can you expect to see? The recommended depth of loft insulation is 270mm.

Topping up your loft insulation from 120mm to 270mm could cost around £240. But the EST says this will save around £12 a year on energy bills.

If you have uninsulated cavity walls; adding cavity wall insulation could save you up to £150 a year off your energy bills.

If you have solid wall insulation; you can save around £260 a year off your energy bills (based on a typical 3-bedroom semi-detached house).

4. Tips for keeping your home warm: Insulate your pipes

Insulating your water pipes is called ‘lagging’ and by sealing in heat; it saves energy and prevents pipes from freezing and bursting in the winter.

A frozen condensate pipe is one of the most common problems modern heating systems face in the winter months.

The water inside the pipe freezes and the boiler’s inbuilt sensors will therefore prevent the boiler from lighting. This means that you’ll have no heating or hot water, right when you need it most!

To minimise the risk of both freezing and heat loss, you should insulate your pipes. This can be simple to do yourself. You can buy foam insulation tubes online or from a DIY store and slip them over your pipes.

In a typical 3-bed semi-detached house; materials will cost around £20. And you will save around £3 a year on your energy bills; as well as reducing the possibility of expensive repair bills from burst pipes.

5. Tips for keeping your home warm: Top up your hot water cylinder insulation

If you have a hot water tank, check its insulation. Most hot water cylinders have some insulation; but if your tank has a jacket under 25mm thick, it could benefit from top-up insulation.

Your hot water cylinder stores hot water for your taps and showers. If the tank is poorly insulated, it will lose heat much quicker.

Topping up the insulation means that you’ll use less energy to re-heat the water; which will save you money on your fuel bills.

A hot water cylinder jacket costs around £16. And according to EST topping up your hot water cylinder insulation from 25mm to 80mm could save around £20 a year.

6. Tips for keeping your home warm: Check your radiators

When the cold weather hits, you’ll want to be sure that your radiators are performing to their full potential. There are several things that you can check to ensure that they’re working in an energy efficient way:

➢ Check for cold spots

A common problem with radiators is that air can get trapped inside them; meaning that they don’t heat up properly. And your boiler will be working much harder to warm up your home.

To test for this, you just need to use your hand to check the temperature of your radiators; from the top to the bottom of each.

Since air rises, it is quite common for the top of a radiator to be cold; and the bottom to be hot.

You might also notice cold patches, or they might just feel cooler than usual. If you spot any of these issues, your radiator needs bleeding to release the trapped air.

This is a relatively straightforward task that you can do yourself, using a radiator key.

➢ Check your radiators are unobstructed

Do you dry clothes by hanging them on your radiators? If so, stop! If you want your radiators to be able to heat your rooms effectively, they need to be unobstructed!

This is because they heat your rooms through convection – despite the misleading name: ‘radiator’!

Radiators actually produce around 80% of their heat through convection, and only 20% through radiation.

They work by heating the cold air above them, and the convection currents transfer the heat around the room.

With this in mind, it’s clear that you don’t want to be obstructing the movement of heat out; of the radiator and into the room.

Radiators are traditionally placed under windows, so you need to be careful not to block the heat with heavy curtains.

Heavy curtains are great for keeping out draughts; but just make sure that they fit your windows correctly, and don’t hang over your radiators.

And, whilst radiator covers might look pretty; covering your radiator up will just interfere with its ability to do its job.

So, instead of drying your socks on your radiators, invest in a clothes airer instead.

➢ Think about fitting thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs)

You’ve probably got a room (or rooms!) in your house that don’t get used as much as the others. If so, you’re wasting money on heating these rooms to the same temperature as the rooms you use all the time.

But there is an answer to this… TRVs!

TRVs or ‘thermostatic radiator valves’ are handy little heating controls that fit on the side of your radiator.

They allow you to control how much heat your radiator emits, and therefore the temperature of your room.

This is great because it means that you can enjoy different heats across different rooms; which is perfect if you don’t see eye to eye with your family members when it comes to warmth!

Not only that, but you can also switch off a radiator completely with a TRV. So, if you’ve got a room that barely gets used; such as a spare bedroom; you can save money by not heating it as often as your other rooms.

TRVs let you keep your home at a comfortable temperature without wasting fuel or heat.

As with most things, prices vary depending on the style of radiator valve you want to buy; and how many you need.

As a guide, with The Heating People; it costs £85 to drain down your current heating system, add chemical corrosion inhibitor, and then £25 per valve installed.

7. Tips for keeping your home warm: Consider a power flush

If your radiators still have cold spots or feel cooler than usual; and bleeding them hasn’t worked, your heating system might need a power flush.

To keep us warm, our heating systems need to be clean. Over time, the water in your pipes, boiler and radiators deposits unwanted by-products like rust.

This rust (plus other dirt and debris) becomes an unpleasant, muddy substance, known as ‘sludge’.

This sludge plays havoc with the efficiency of your heating system, causing corrosion and blockages. This means that your heating system can’t perform like it used to.

Not only can this affect the performance of your radiators. It can also damage individual parts of your heating system; leading to breakdowns. And can eventually lead to the need for a full boiler replacement in the most severe cases.

A power flush is a cleansing process which cleans your entire central heating system; removing the sludge, which would otherwise cause damage and reduce efficiency.

8. Tips for keeping your home warm: Check your room thermostats

Your room thermostat regulates and maintains your desired temperature throughout your home.

If it goes on the blink, it can cause your room to be too hot or too cold. If it blows, it can’t send a signal to the valve which allows the radiators to warm up; and you’ll feel the chill.

To test whether your thermostat is working, with the heating set to ‘on’ at the timer; turn the boiler thermostat to minimum and see if the boiler switches off.

If not, turn off the boiler’s time clock and check again. If the boiler fails to respond to the thermostat, it may not be working.

9. Tips for keeping your home warm: Upgrade your heating controls

Heating controls allow you to keep your home warm and cosy when you need it to be; whilst simultaneously keeping your energy bills as low as possible.

If you were to just turn your heating up to full blast in the winter, hoping for the best; this would trigger a huge (and unnecessary) energy bill.

There are lots of different types of heating controls to choose from.

But at its simplest, when you set your thermostat to the temperature you want; your boiler will come on when the room temperature falls below this. And will switch off when the desired temperature is reached.

More sophisticated compensation smart controls will adjust the output of the boiler up and down in small increments; to meet the room temperature exactly. These save energy and reduce fuel bills.

According to the Energy Saving Trust (EST); if you live in a typical three-bedroom house without any controls; and then you were to install and correctly use a programmer room thermostat; and thermostatic radiator valves, you could save £75 a year, whilst still being perfectly comfortable.

10. Tips for keeping your home warm: Invest in a new boiler

Unfortunately, boilers don’t last forever. If you’ve noticed your boiler is struggling to do what it used to do; or is breaking down regularly; or is not working at all; you might be wondering whether you should try to repair what you have; or whether the time has come for a replacement.

Here a just a few signs that it might be time to consider a replacement:

Your boiler is knocking on a bit, and is needing more frequent repairs;
Replacement parts are hard to find because of the age of your boiler;
Your energy bills have crept up without explanation;
You’ve noticed that your heating system isn’t working as it used to;
Your boiler or radiators are making funny noises.

Final thoughts…

We hope you’ve found these tips helpful.

You might like our related blog: 6 top tips for buying a new boiler.

For tailored advice on improving your central heating system; contact one of our experts at The Heating People, who will be happy to help.

Useful Links:

Energy Saving Trust article on saving energy at home

Survey conducted by the Gas Safe Register

EST guide to draught-proofing

The Greenage article on draught proofing

Heating controls

Nest Smart Learning Thermostat

Post author By Lucy
Post date November 10, 2022

Nest Smart Learning Thermostat…

If you associate one name with smart thermostats, it’s probably Nest. Currently in its third generation, Google’s clever thermostat is sleeker and smarter than ever, whilst still being simple and intuitive to use.

Like all smart thermostats, the Nest Learning Thermostat allows you to monitor and control your heating remotely and save money on your energy bills.

But what’s different about this bit of kit – and the clue is in its name – is that this thermostat actually learns as you use it.

Whilst you can still control it by turning the dial or using your phone, the Nest thermostat is so smart you’ll soon realise that you don’t have to bother doing either!

Your Nest thermostat learns the temperatures that you like when you’re at home and then programs itself.

As well as learning what you like, your Nest thermostat can tell when you’re not home and will automatically switch to a custom Eco Temperature.

And when you come back, it will switch back to your scheduled temperature. So, accidentally leaving the heating on when you’re out, is a thing of the past.

This all sounds great, but how does a Nest thermostat save energy? And is it all it’s cracked up to be?

In this guide, we explain everything you need to know about the Nest Learning Thermostat, so you can decide whether it’s a good choice for your home.

How does a Nest Smart Learning Thermostat help save energy?

Like other smart thermostats, the Nest thermostat allows you to schedule your heating, with the promise of saving you energy, and therefore money, on your heating bills.

Smart controls allow you to control your heating remotely via the internet using an app on your smartphone or a webpage on your computer. Unlike other heating controls, smart thermostats often have many energy saving features built into the one device.

So, let’s take a look at how the Nest thermostat can help you save energy:

Nest allows you to control your heating remotely

As with other smart thermostats, Nest allows you to control your heating from wherever you happen to be.

So, there’s no more paying to heat an empty house if you pop out and realise you’ve accidentally left your heating on – you can turn it off on your phone.

Nest allows a hands-off approach to heating

Since Nest is a learning thermostat, it learns the temperatures that you like when you’re at home and then programs itself.

This means that you’ll have a more consistent and comfortable environment and won’t be wasting money by constantly adjusting your thermostat, creating spikes of over and under heating.

A Nest thermostat also learns how quickly your home heats and cools, because heat loss is different in different buildings.

It uses this information, together with the outside weather conditions to precisely determine when to turn your boiler on to reach the temperature you want, at the time you want.

And it learns when to turn your system off to prevent overshooting the target temperature, saving energy and money.

Nest can help you save energy while you’re away

As well as learning your temperature schedule, your Nest thermostat will automatically turn down the heating when you’re away to help save energy.

Nest can show you how to save money on your energy bills

A Nest thermostat can help you to save energy by indicating (with a leaf symbol) when you’ve adjusted to an energy-efficient temperature.

You’ll get monthly reports about your energy usage and can also check your daily energy usage in the Nest app. This can help you to make money saving changes to your behaviour if you need to.

How much money could I save with a Nest thermostat?

It’s clear that a Nest thermostat can help you to save energy, but how much money could this save you?

Unfortunately, this is a tricky question to answer because it depends on a range of factors including:

how you used your heating system before you got your smart thermostat;
the level of insulation your house has;
how many people live at home with you;
What sort of boiler you have; and
How efficiently you use your smart thermostat.

Obviously, if you buy a smart thermostat and just crank it up to full whack in the winter, you’re not going to be saving money!

But nonetheless, manufacturers of smart controls make bold claims about the savings to be made.

Tado says that its smart thermostat ‘will pay for itself within a year’ by reducing your heating bills by up to 31%.

Netatmo claims that its smart thermostat will reduce the energy you use by 37%.

Nest has more modest claims, but still reckons that the thermostat will save you between 10 and 12% on your heating bill.

For more on how smart heating saves money, check out our related blog here.

What heating systems is Nest compatible with?

Like most modern smart thermostats, Nest will work with almost all condensing and combi boilers. It’s also compatible with system and heat only boilers, as well as air source and ground source heat pumps.

What do you get in the box with a Nest thermostat?

When you buy a Nest Learning thermostat, you get two components: the smart thermostat and the Heat Link, which connects to your boiler.

The smart thermostat can be fitted to a wall, or can sit on a stand, which is sold separately.

What’s the Nest Heat Link?

The Nest Heat link looks like a glossy plastic box. It’s not as stylish as the smart thermostat, but you won’t have to look at it much. It attaches to your boiler, and has built-in Wi-Fi to connect the system to the internet via your router.

The Heat Link acts like a mediator, communicating with your boiler and then with your Nest Learning Thermostat.

Who should install my Nest thermostat?

Nest recommends that installation should be carried out by a professional.

The Heating People will be happy to recommend the best heating controls for you as part of your free quotation for a new boiler.

If you choose to go with Nest, we will install it in the right location, connect the Heat Link and set it up for you.

What are the key features of the Nest Learning Thermostat?

Let’s take a look at what features this smart little gadget offers…

Nest features design-led aesthetics

Let’s start with the superficial stuff – it’s pretty, right?!

The first thing you notice about this hockey-puck sized gadget is that it looks too cool to be a thermostat.

The Nest thermostat is made from premium brushed steel and glass, and you can choose to have it in black, white, stainless steel, or a copper finish.

The thermostat features a colour LCD screen which displays the current temperature on the outer ring, with the target temperature in the centre.

It has a feel of an iPod about it, which is perhaps unsurprising given that Nest was created by the same guy who designed the iPod!

It’s certainly not style over substance though, it’s practical too. The outside spins and the unit acts as one big button, letting you access all of the features directly from the thermostat.

The design is well thought out. Turning a wheel to adjust the temperature feels intuitive and reminiscent of an old-fashioned thermostat.

Nest can be controlled from anywhere

As we mentioned earlier, once you connect your thermostat to Wi-Fi, you can control it from anywhere. So, if you’re on your way home from a weekend away, you can adjust your temperature at home so that you arrive back to a lovely warm house.

Nest is a learning thermostat

What sets Nest apart from many other smart thermostats is that it learns your heating preferences and schedule so that you can set it and forget it!

Nest also has a learning algorithm called: ‘True Radiant’. This feature learns how quickly your home heats and cools so that you don’t get spikes of over or under heating. The result is that you should have a comfortable and consistent temperature.

Auto schedule

Auto-schedule refers to the feature where your Nest learns the temperatures you like and automatically programs itself, so you don’t have to lift a finger.

Home/Away mode

In addition to Auto-Schedule, Nest uses motion sensors to switch to ECO (energy conservation) mode if it thinks you’ve gone out.

Nest has motion sensors and geofencing technology

As we’ve mentioned above, Nest has motion sensors which allow it to switch to Away mode when you go out, which will save you energy.

But don’t worry, Nest is smart enough not to rely on motion sensors alone – what if you’re having a long nap?!

Nest also uses geofencing technology to check your phone’s location to help determine whether you’re home or not.

And if you have lots of people living at home, you have the option to connect multiple phones to your Nest. Nifty, huh?

Nest also uses its motion sensors in Farsight mode. Farsight mode allows Nest to flash up some information on its screen when it recognises you’re 5m away from the device.

This is quite a handy little feature, because you can choose to have a clock; the current room temperature; weather forecast; or target temperature displayed.

Nest supports voice control

Nest works with many third-party devices and supports voice commands via Google Home and Amazon Alexa.

And you can also connect it to other Nest devices, such as the Nest Protect smoke/CO alarm and the Nest Cam Indoor and Outdoor security cameras.

Nest has OpenTherm technology

Nest now has OpenTherm technology. OpenTherm is a language that compatible thermostats and heating systems can use to talk to each other with two-way communication instead of simple one-way on/off commands from the thermostat.

With OpenTherm, Nest helps the boiler work out the exact amount of gas to burn to reach or maintain the temperature. This should save energy and prolong the life of your heating system.

One of the reasons we rate ATAG boilers is because they have OpenTherm technology.

Nest has a leaf feature to help you save money

Nest uses a leaf symbol when you adjust to a more energy-efficient temperature. This can help you to make small changes to your habits which will help you to save money.

Nest shows you how much you’ve saved

Nest shows you how much energy you use every day in Energy History, and every month in your Home Report. So you can see when you use more energy, such as at the weekend or Monday nights, and how to use less.

Are there any drawbacks?

Although the Nest thermostat is one of the best-known smart thermostats on the market, there are some drawbacks.

Firstly, Nest comes with a fairly high price-tag of around £220. So depending on how you currently control your heating, it may take some time to recoup the cost.

Secondly, the Nest thermostat only controls the boiler (and a hot water tank if you have one), and not individual radiators. This means that your whole house will be heated, and if you don’t use every room, this can be wasteful.

Other, more expensive, smart systems such as Honeywell Evohome allow you to install their smart TRVs on your radiators so that you can control heat at each radiator. So, if you have an empty spare room that never gets used, you can switch the heating off in there altogether.

Although Nest can support multiple zones, this is only possible if your home is already plumbed into separate zones. You can buy separate smart TRVs to get around this problem.

Nest Thermostat review: Verdict

The Nest Thermostat remains one of the best and simplest smart heating systems available.

It’s a pity there’s no option to add smart TRVs, but if you have a smaller home and want a centralised controller that you need to do very little with, then it’s hard to beat Nest!

Useful Links:

Google store: Nest thermostats

Tado: Savings with a smart thermostat

Uncategorized

Replacing a heat-only boiler with a combi

Post author By Lucy
Post date November 7, 2022

Thinking of replacing a heat-only boiler with a combi?

If your existing heat-only or regular boiler is getting old; or is on the blink; you might be considering switching to a combi boiler.

But changing to a combi can be daunting if you’ve never had one before.

It can feel tempting to just replace like-for-like, rather than stepping into the unknown. Particularly if you’ve always had a particular type of boiler.

But there might be a much better suited boiler for your home.

So, when it’s time to replace your boiler; you should ask yourself whether your lifestyle has changed over the last decade. And whether a different sort of boiler might be a better fit for you now.

If you’re wondering whether to change from a heat-only boiler to a combi, this guide will help! We look at the main benefits and drawbacks of making such a switch, to help you with your decision.

For tailored advice, contact one of our friendly team at The Heating People to book your free survey.

Your existing heat-only system

First off, it’s important to establish what your existing heating system is, and what you’re looking for.

This can be a bit confusing, because heat-only boilers are also referred to as ‘regular boilers’ and ‘conventional boilers’. But whichever name is used, we’re talking about the same heating system.

We prefer to call them heat-only boilers. Because they produce hot water for your central heating; but use a separate hot water cylinder to produce hot water for your taps; baths; and showers.

What is a heat-only boiler?

Heat-only boilers are often thought of as the traditional way of heating a home. And out of the three types of boiler available (heat-only, system and combi) they take up the most space.

If you currently have a heat-only boiler; you’ll have noticed the hot water cylinder, which is usually placed in an airing cupboard.

But you might not have seen that there is also a cold water cistern (sometimes called a header tank); and a small feed and expansion tank in your attic or loft space.

These components work together to provide you with heating and hot water.

The cold-water cistern is provided with water from the mains. With the help of gravity, this cold water is fed down to your cylinder.

Your boiler heats this water;, and the cylinder stores it until it’s needed by your radiators, taps or showers.

The feed and expansion tank is used to keep the water in your heating system at the correct level. It allows for the water expansion when the heating is switched on.

What are the main advantages of a heat-only boiler?

Since heat-only boilers store large quantities of hot water in a cylinder; they can meet a high demand for hot water.

This makes them a great choice for larger homes with multiple bathrooms. Or homes where family members all want to use the hot water at the same time.

Heat-only boilers also work well in areas that suffer from low pressure. And they’re compatible with renewable technologies, such as solar – which are vital in our ambition to meet Net Zero.

And if you’re someone who worries about being in the dreaded no-hot-water situation; heat-only boilers can be fitted with an additional immersion heater. This will heat your water in the event of a break-down.

What are the drawbacks to having a heat-only boiler?

If you’re thinking about switching to a combi boiler, you’re probably already aware of the drawbacks of a heat-only boiler.

As we’ve mentioned, heat-only boilers take up a lot of space in your home; because of their additional cold water tanks and cylinders.

And since heat-only boilers store hot water, their ability to supply it is limited by the size of the cylinder.

You might have encountered this problem if you’ve used a lot of hot water in one go. If you completely empty the cylinder, you’ll temporarily run out of hot water until the boiler heats up some more.

The other drawback is that heat-only boilers tend to be the least efficient of all the boiler types. This is because they have the fewest control options, and will experience some heat loss from the hot water cylinder.

To read more about the pros and cons of heat-only boilers, check out our related blog here.

Now let’s take a look at your combi alternative…

How does a combi boiler work?

Combi boilers are currently the most popular type of domestic boiler installed in the UK. We’ve dedicated a whole blog to what they are, which you can read in full here.

But in a nutshell…

A combi boiler provides a ‘combination’ of heating and hot water from one compact appliance; without the need for any external tanks or cylinders.

This differentiates them from system boilers, which require a hot water cylinder; and from heat-only boilers, which require a hot water cylinder and two cold water storage tanks.

Combi boilers don’t need hot water cylinders because they heat water instantly when you turn on a tap; so they don’t need to store it.

They don’t need cold water tanks because (like a system boiler); they take their cold water directly from the mains supply.

What are the benefits of installing a combi boiler?

Combi boilers are very popular in the UK because they offer a lot of benefits:

Combi boilers are space saving

If you’re switching from a heat-only boiler to a combi; you’ll save tons of space because you can get rid of the hot water cylinder in your airing cupboard; and the cold water tanks in your loft.

This frees up storage space that you wouldn’t otherwise have had; and is appealing to smaller homes where space is at a premium.

You’ll also find plenty of boiler manufacturers who offer compact combi boilers that will even fit inside a kitchen cupboard!

Combi boilers are energy efficient

Thanks to the Boiler Plus Regulations, and improvements in our heating technology; all boilers are much more efficient than they used to be.

The Energy Saving Trust estimates says you can save £340 a year on your gas bill; by trading in an old-style non-condensing boiler; for a new condensing one.

But combi boilers may be more energy efficient in some cases compared to heat-only boilers.

Unlike heat-only boilers; combis heat water on demand, so you never pay to heat more water than you actually use.

With a heat-only boiler (which stores hot water), hot water tends to be produced twice a day; even if you don’t use it. If it doesn’t get used, this hot water cools down, wasting energy.

And as we mentioned above; if you have a heat-only boiler, you’ll also inevitably experience some heat loss from the hot water cylinder. Again, this is wasted energy, which is not an issue with a combi boiler.

Combi boilers never run out of hot water

If you’ve currently got a heat-only boiler; you might have had occasions where you’ve used all of the hot water in the cylinder; and have had to wait for it to refill.

This can be frustrating and can lead to family arguments over who used the last of it!

But this simply isn’t an issue with a combi. With no water cylinder to heat up, combi boilers can provide an unlimited supply of hot water on demand.

Since a combi heats water instantly when you turn on a tap, you’ll never run out of hot water again!

The drawbacks of installing a combi boiler

Whilst there are plenty of advantages to installing a combi, they’re not for everyone. Sometimes a new heat-only boiler or a new system boiler is a better choice.

Combi boilers struggle to meet high demands for hot water

It sounds counterintuitive to say that a combi will never run out of hot water; and then say that it can’t meet high demands for hot water – but stay with us!

A combi can’t run out of hot water because it heats it instantly when you turn on a tap. Unlike with a heat-only boiler, there is no cylinder that will eventually empty.

But because a combi heats the water instantly when you turn on a tap; it will struggle if you turn on multiple taps at the same time.

Most combi boilers provide between 9 – 16 litres per minute. Whatever the capacity, it will be halved if two hot water outlets are in use at the same time; i.e. to around 8 litres per minute at best.

This means that combi boilers are best suited to homes with relatively small hot water demands at any one time.

If people in your household all want to shower at the same time; a combi boiler may struggle to keep up with your demand.

In larger homes with multiple bathrooms, a heat-only or a system boiler would be a better choice.

You can read more about the pros and cons of combi boilers here.

What’s involved in replacing a heat-only boiler with a combi?

If you’ve decided that you want to switch to a combi, you may be wondering what’s involved. So, we’ve summarised the steps that The Heating People engineers will take:

Preparation

Arrival of your engineer – when your heating engineer arrives to install your new boiler; they will discuss the planned work, to ensure that everyone is happy. They will explain where they will need access to, and for how long, so that you can plan your day.

Preparation of the area – your engineer will put down floor coverings in all work areas and transit routes. So you can rest assured that your carpets will be protected from any debris.

Draining the heating system – your engineer will need to drain your heating system before they can begin.

Removal of your old existing boiler – your engineer will remove your old boiler; flue; cylinder and tanks; as well as any controls that won’t work with your new combi.

Flush and clean – Depending on what was discussed during the quotation stage; your engineer will use the flushing method agreed upon. This ensures that your heating system is clean for your new boiler.

Installation

Alteration of pipework – your engineer will alter your heating pipework to suit your new combi boiler. The Heating People only use quality products. We’ll only use copper or professional press fit systems, we don’t use DIY style push-fit systems.

Routing of hot and cold pipework – your engineer will route your new hot and cold pipework from an existing point on your heating system; to your new boiler.

Upgrading of the gas pipe – when changing to a combi boiler; it’s often necessary to upgrade the gas pipe to a larger one. This is because combi boilers require more power to heat the hot water. Where necessary, your engineer will do this.

Installation of condensate pipe – If your old boiler was standard efficiency, your engineer will need to install a condensate pipe. This pipe will transfer the wastewater that gets produced by your new condensing boiler, into a sewer.

Installation of the new boiler and the flue – your engineer will install your new boiler and flue. This is usually in the same position as your old boiler, but other locations are possible.

Connection of the pipework – your engineer will connect all of the pipework to your new boiler.

Wiring and controls – your engineer will complete the wiring and will install the controls for your new boiler.

Safety checks – your engineer will conduct safety checks and commissioning checks for your new boiler.

Completion and handover

Paperwork – your engineer will fill in all of the paperwork for your new boiler. They will fill out all commissioning test results in your benchmark log book.

Tidy up – The Heating People will leave your home as clean and tidy as they found it! They will remove and dispose of your old boiler and any redundant parts.

Handover – Your engineer will then complete a handover with you when all the work is complete. This ensures that you are as informed as possible on how to operate the boiler; how to use all the controls; and how to get the best efficiency from your system.

Registration of your new boiler – After installing your new boiler, we register it with the manufacturers to activate its guarantee; and notify your local building control via the Gas Safe Register. We offer guarantees of up to 14 years on our boilers, for your peace of mind.

How long will it take to replace a heat-only boiler with a combi?

It generally takes 2-3 days on site to change from a heat-only to a combi boiler; depending on the work required.

How much will it cost to change from a heat-only boiler to a combi?

The price of replacing a boiler costs less than you might think. It obviously depends on what you are changing from, and what you are changing to.

But as a rough guide, at The Heating People:

Replacing an existing combi boiler with a new combi boiler will cost between £1800-3000.
Upgrading from a heat-only boiler to a combi boiler will cost between £2200-£3500.
Swapping a heat-only boiler with a new heat-only boiler will cost between £1800-3000.
Replacing a heat-only to a system boiler will cost between £1800-3000.
Swapping a system boiler with a new system boiler will cost between £1800-3000.

Contact The Heating People today to arrange your free quotation.

Which combi boiler should I choose?

If you’ve decided that you want a combi boiler, your next challenge is deciding which one!

This can feel like a daunting task because there are so many manufacturers all offering extensive ranges of combi boilers in different sizes; with different key features and benefits.

Our best advice here is to choose an expert Gas Safe installer that you can trust. We’re going to make a bold claim here – your choice of installer is more important than your choice of boiler!

Many people take for granted the fact that your engineer is the number one contributor to your heating system’s efficiency. And as such, your engineer should be your first port of call in finding your perfect boiler.

The right engineer will calculate and recommend the best makes and models for your needs.

The Heating People conduct heat loss calculations as standard to correctly size your boiler. And will make recommendations on models that meet your requirements.

We only use products from manufacturers that offer outstanding engineering and reliability. Because of this, we can offer guarantees of up to 14 years on our boilers, for your peace of mind.

Final thoughts…

We hope you’ve found this guide useful in helping you to decide whether switching from a heat-only to a combi boiler sounds like a good option for you.

It ultimately depends on how you use your hot water at home.

If you have a large household that wants to use hot water simultaneously, a heat-only or system boiler will be your best option.

But if you don’t need to use multiple outlets at the same time, a combi could be a more efficient and space saving option.

For tailored advice, contact The Heating People to book your free survey.

You might also like to read our related blog: 6 Top Tips for buying a new boiler.

Useful links

Energy Saving Trust: Boilers

Worcester Bosch

Which Worcester Bosch boiler?

Post author By Lucy
Post date October 31, 2022

If you’re shopping for a new boiler, you’re bound to have seen loads of glowing reviews for Worcester Bosch boilers. After all, they’re the current market leaders for domestic boilers.

Which? has regularly praised and recommended Worcester Bosch for both their gas and oil boiler ranges. In the Which? Best Boiler Brand Survey 2020, they said:

‘Worcester Bosch performs so consistently well in our annual reliability surveys that its name is synonymous with dependability.’

In their Survey in 2021, Worcester Bosch was awarded an overall score of 84%, ranking first place out of the 16 boiler brands that scored within the survey.

They were given 5 stars out of 5 for reliability and brand customer score, and 4 stars out of 5 for their overall brand engineer score.

If you think a Worcester Bosch boiler might be for you, but you’re confused about which type or model you need, then this blog’s for you!

In this handy guide, we outline the three different types of boiler that Worcester Bosch offer, and compare some of the popular models within those ranges. Hopefully this will give you a better idea of what might be a good option for you.

For tailored advice on your needs, contact one of our friendly team at The Heating People to book your free survey.

Which Worcester Bosch boiler? – Combi boilers

Worcester Bosch have a wide range of combi boilers ranging from their design-led Lifestyle range, to a compact range to fit in your kitchen cupboard.

What is a combi boiler?

A combi boiler provides a ‘combination’ of heating and hot water from one compact unit, without the need for any additional water storage tanks or hot water cylinders.

A combi gets its cold water supply directly from the mains, and heats it instantly on demand. The hot water is supplied directly to your taps and radiators, without storing it first.

This makes combi boilers efficient because you never pay for more hot water than you use, and there is no heat loss from storing hot water in a cylinder for later use.

However, the main drawback to a combi is that they struggle to meet a high demand for hot water, because they are heating it instantly.

In larger homes with a higher demand for hot water, a system or heat-only boiler is a better option – we cover these two types later on.

You can read the pros and cons of combi boilers here.

Worcester Bosch Greenstar 2000 combi boiler

The Greenstar 2000 is the lowest priced combi boiler offered by Worcester Bosch, and they describe it as: ‘The best boiler not very much money can buy’.

It’s only available as a combi boiler, unlike many of the other combis which are also available in system and heat-only versions.

The Greenstar 2000 was designed to be a price competitive combi boiler, and is only available in two output sizes of 25 and 30kW. This makes it suitable for apartments, small and medium sized homes with one bathroom.

It’s been designed to provide an attractive solution that comfortably fits between standard kitchen cupboards. It looks similar to the Greenstar 8000, and it’s basically a scaled down version.

Key benefits of the Greenstar 2000:

Guarantee of up to 6 years when installed by a Worcester Bosch Accredited Installer
Perfect for small to medium sized homes with one bathroom
Worcester Bosch engineered quality at an affordable price
Compact enough to fit between wall-mounted kitchen cupboards (724mm x 400mm x 300mm.
Incredibly quiet when in use
Attractive design with push-button LCD display
Innovative ‘Quick Tap’ water saving function helps you reduce water waste
Peace of mind with a 10 year guarantee on the primary heat exchanger
Endorsed with a Which? Best Buy, because it is an easy to operate, affordable and high quality boiler.

Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 combi boiler

The Greenstar 4000 is Worcester Bosch’s mid-range boiler, sitting between the Greenstar 2000 and The Greenstar 8000 boilers.

What strikes you immediately is that it’s very similar in appearance to the sleek Worcester Bosch Greenstar 8000 Life and Style models, but is cheaper. It also has a pioneering control display which is similar to the 8000 Style.

The Greenstar 4000 is available in output sizes of 25 kw and 30kw, making it ideal for small to medium sized homes with one bathroom.

The Greenstar 4000 is one of our top five combi boilers because it has a wide power range to meet all of your heating and hot water needs, whilst doing so efficiently.

It has a 1:10 modulation range that reduces gas consumption, energy bills and wear and tear on components – the 25 and 30kW combi boilers can modulate down to just 3kW!

Key benefits of the Greenstar 4000

Guarantee of up to 10 years when installed by a Worcester Bosch Accredited Installer
Suitable for small to medium homes
The modern new design comes with an easy to use colour display
Hot water flow rates up to 12.3 l/min
Innovative ‘Quick Tap’ water saving function helps you reduce water waste
Wide power range helps to reduce gas consumption and lower energy bills
Operates extremely well in low water pressure areas
Features wireless connectivity with the Bosch EasyControl smart thermostat
Features SimpleSwitch tech

Worcester Bosch Greenstar 8000 Life combi boiler

We’ve dedicated an entire blog to the Greenstar 8000 LifeStyle range, which you can read here.

But we’ll summarise some of the key features for you again – starting with the Life.

Building upon the award-winning Greenstar CDi Classic, the Greenstar Life range features a modern new design and a whole host of benefits designed to make looking after the heating and hot water in your home easy.

The Greenstar Life is part of Worcester Bosch’s most powerful wall hung combi boiler range, with upgraded controls and wireless connectivity.

But what you can’t fail to notice is the sleek, modern look of these boilers. They look more like an iPhone than a boiler, so you’ll no longer want to hide it away in a cupboard!

The Life is available in gloss white, but with the Style, you can also choose gloss black – an industry first!

But as well as being pretty, it’s powerful. Both Lifestyle boilers are available in outputs of up to 50kW for combi boilers, making them the most powerful wall hung combi boilers on the market.

This means that they’re suitable for larger properties with multiple bathrooms, and a high demand for hot water.

Key benefits of the Greenstar 8000 Life

Guarantee of 12 years when installed by a Worcester Bosch Accredited Installer
Power outputs of up to 50kW
Ideal for larger homes with more than one bathroom
Modern new design
Improved boiler display screen with easy to push control buttons
Optional unique Intelligent Filling System
Wireless connectivity with the Bosch EasyControl smart thermostat

Worcester Bosch Greenstar 8000 Style combi boiler

The second offering in the Lifestyle range, is the Greenstar 8000 Style, and it’s the premium offering from Worcester Bosch.

Building upon the foundations of the Greenstar range, the range Style combi features a new design, more power and even greater connectivity.

The Greenstar 8000 Style has been nicknamed ‘the beautiful beast’ by Worcester Bosch, who describe it as “a new benchmark in premium quality heating and hot-water provision.”

Capable of power outputs of up to 50kW, the Greenstar Style range is perfect for homes of any size, with the power to comfortably heat large homes with two or more bathrooms.

The 50kW Style has the highest water flow rate of any wall-hung combi boiler on the market, with a hot water tap flow rate of 20.3 litres per minute at 35 degrees or 17.9 litres per minute at 40 degrees.

The Style is available in gloss black or gloss white, and features a sleek full colour touch screen display.

Key benefits of the Greenstar 8000 Style:

Guarantee of 12 years when installed by a Worcester Bosch Accredited Installer
Power outputs of up to 50kW
Ideal for larger homes with more than one bathroom
Available in either gloss black or gloss white
Easy-to-use full colour touch screen display
Optional unique Intelligent Filling System
Wireless connectivity with the Bosch EasyControl

Worcester Bosch system boilers

Many of the Worcester Bosch combi boilers which we’ve talked about above, are also available as system boilers.

So, if you liked the sound of the Greenstar 4000 or 8000 boilers, but you need a system boiler, you’re in luck!

What is a system boiler?

A system boiler is similar to a combi in that it takes its cold water supply directly from the mains, but unlike a combi, it heats water and stores it in a hot water cylinder until it’s needed.

Since system boilers store a large quantity of hot water, they can supply multiple outlets at the same time. This makes it the ideal choice for a home with multiple bathrooms.

You can read the pros and cons of system boilers here.

Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 system boiler

The popular Greenstar 4000 is available as a system boiler in 12kW, 15kW, 18kW, 21kW and 24kW outputs.

Just like with the combi boiler, you’ll benefit from its 1:10 modulation range that reduces gas consumption, energy bills and wear and tear on components. The 12kW system can modulate down to just 1.9kW!

As with the combi version, this boiler is available with a guarantee of up to 10 years when installed by a Worcester Bosch Accredited Installer.

Worcester Bosch Greenstar 8000 Life and Style system boilers

The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 8000 Life and Style boilers are available as system boilers in 30 and 35 kW power outputs.

It’s worth noting that the Life and the Style are available with more power (up to 50 kW) in the combi and heat-only models, but not as system boilers.

As with the other versions, the 8000 Life and Style system boilers are available with extended guarantees of up to 12 years when installed by a Worcester Bosch Accredited Installer.

Worcester Bosch heat-only boilers

Worcester Bosch also offers its popular combi models as heat-only boilers too.

So if you’ve got a high demand for hot water and want to replace an existing boiler without updating your entire heating system, Worcester Bosch has got you covered.

What is a heat-only boiler?

A heat-only boiler is also known as a regular or conventional boiler. They are seen as being the traditional way of heating a home. They are usually installed as part of an unvented system, but they can be sealed too.

Heat-only boilers require the most space in your home. In addition to the boiler itself, there is a cold water cistern (sometimes called a header tank); a small feed and expansion tank; and a hot water storage cylinder.

Since they store hot water (like a system boiler) they also lend themselves nicely to homes with a high demand for hot water.

You can read the pros and cons of heat-only boilers here.

Worcester Bosch Greenstar 8000 heat-only boiler

If you liked the look of the Worcester Bosch Greenstar 8000 Life combi boiler, but you need a heat-only boiler, you’re in luck!

The Greenstar 8000 Life is available as a heat-only boiler in 30kW, 35kW, 40kW, 45kW, and 50 kW power outputs.

As with the combi and system versions, it’s available with an extended guarantee of up to 12 years when installed by a Worcester Bosch Accredited Installer.

Worcester Bosch Greenstar Ri heat-only boiler

Another good option in the heat-only range is the Worcester Bosch Greenstar Ri.

The Greenstar Ri is a compact, wall mounted boiler that is perfect for medium and large-sized homes.

Small enough to be installed in a standard kitchen cupboard, this boiler can be used with Worcester Bosch’s range of high efficiency Greenstore cylinders for a complete Worcester system solution for your home.

The Greenstar Ri is available in 27kW and 30kW and comes with a guarantee of up to 10 years when installed by a Worcester Bosch Accredited Installer.

Key benefits of the Worcester Bosch Greenstar Ri heat-only boiler

Guarantee of up to 10 years when installed by a Worcester Bosch Accredited Installer
Perfect for medium and large sized homes
Compact enough to fit in a standard kitchen cupboard
Simple boiler control knob
User-friendly displays for ease of use
Can be used with Greenskies solar panels for energy and cost savings
Choice of controls enables greater comfort and economy

Which type of Worcester Bosch boiler do I need?

If you’re confused about what type of boiler you need, you should start by thinking about your heating and hot water needs.

Remember that your circumstances might have changed since your last boiler was installed, and you might even have inherited the boiler when you moved in!

Just because your home has a particular type of boiler now, doesn’t mean that you’re stuck with it. You should consider whether you want to replace like-for-like, or whether you want to take the opportunity to change to a different type of boiler altogether.

For example, if you currently have a combi, but have found that it’s now struggling to meet the hot water demands of your growing family, a system or heat-only boiler might be a better option for you.

The Heating People will be able to advise you on your best option as part of your free survey.

What size of Worcester Bosch boiler do I need?

If you’ve read our related blog: What size boiler do I need? – you’ll know that when we talk about the size of a boiler, we’re talking about its power output rather than its physical dimensions.

Generally, the greater your heating and hot water demand, the larger the kilowatt output tends to be. People often make the mistake of oversizing their boiler, but this is a costly mistake.

To get the perfect size of boiler for your needs, The Heating People conduct a heat loss calculation as part of your free survey.

And as we’ve seen, Worcester Bosch provides boilers for the entire spectrum, ranging from 9 kilowatts to 50 kilowatts, so whatever your needs, there will be an option for you.

Useful links:

Worcester Bosch: Choosing the right boiler

Which? Boiler reviews: Worcester Bosch brand

Worcester Bosch Greenstar 2000

Advice

Common combi fault codes

Post author By Lucy
Post date October 27, 2022

Common combi fault codes…

We can all have ‘off-days’, even your boiler.

Hopefully through regular boiler maintenance and servicing, these days will be few and far between – but if your boiler is displaying a fault code, it’s trying to tell you that something’s amiss.

The good news is, the problem might not be serious, and you might not need a Gas Safe engineer to get it working again.

For this reason, we’ve put together a list of some of the most common errors your boiler will display, and what you should do about it.

What is a fault code?

When a boiler suddenly stops working, it will usually display a boiler fault code that will help to identify the cause of the problem and indicate what action should be taken.

All combi boilers display error codes differently, so depending on your model, the error code itself will vary.

If you’re lucky enough to own a Worcester Bosch Greenstar 8000 Style, you won’t need this guide because those boilers are so smart they spell out what the problem is on their fancy touch screens.

But if you have a boiler that tells you through codes, this is for you!

What can cause a boiler fault code?

Although it’s frustrating when your boiler encounters a problem, it’s important to remember that it’s a complex machine that’s working hard for you around the clock, every day of the year.

So, it’s unsurprising that whilst modern boilers are extremely reliable, they will inevitably encounter a glitch from time to time.

A glitch doesn’t necessarily mean that there’s something wrong with the boiler itself, it could indicate problems with its fuel supply or a frozen or burst pipe.

How do I find out what my fault code means?

Although there are many different fault codes that your boiler can display (in different combinations), there’s no need to panic when a code starts flashing.

The first step to take, is to check your boiler’s manual.

Your manual should contain a chart of fault codes for your boiler, with a description of what the code is signaling, and what action needs to be taken to address it.

If you can’t find your manual, you can look at some of the common fault codes we’ve compiled later in this blog; or you can use Google to search for an online manual for your boiler.

What are some common boiler problems that trigger fault codes?

Although different makes of boilers will display different fault codes, it is worth looking at what some of the common causes of these error codes are:

Common combi fault codes: Low pressure fault

Modern boilers require constant water pressure to function properly.

If your boiler is losing pressure, it will cause problems, such as the dreaded, no hot water, situation.

The good news is that low pressure is usually easy to spot, and, in some cases, you can address it yourself. Your boiler’s pressure gauge will alert you to the fact that it’s losing pressure.

If you find that your gauge is below one bar of pressure, adjusting this to 1.5 should solve your problem in the short term.

There are lots of possible reasons for your low-pressure fault.

If you notice your pressure gauge drops overnight, this could be caused by a leak in your system; a problem with the pressure relief valve; air in your radiators; or a problem with the expansion vessel.

If you experience frequent or sudden problems with your boiler pressure, you should contact a heating engineer for help.

Common combi fault codes: No gas, or insufficient gas pressure

Problems can arise, triggering a fault code, if your boiler is not receiving gas or if the gas pressure is too low.

This is a problem sometimes encountered by people using gas meters because gas meters have a regulator fitted to them, which can freeze in cold weather.

Common combi fault codes: No ignition

Another common fault occurs when there’s no pilot light on the boiler or the boiler pilot light keeps going out.

The pilot light is crucial because it ignites the gas, which heats the water in your central heating system.

So, if the pilot light has gone out, you’ll need to reset it following your manufacturer’s instructions.

Common combi fault codes: Condensate pipe is blocked

If your boiler has stopped working when it’s freezing outside, there’s a good chance that your boiler’s condensate pipe has frozen. This pipe is responsible for taking waste from your boiler out into a drain.

If it gets blocked with ice, your boiler will automatically shut down as a safety measure until it’s resolved. The good news is, it’s usually straightforward to resolve.

The first thing to do is locate your condensate pipe. It should be a white plastic pipe that comes out of the wall directly behind your boiler. Check that it runs from the boiler to an exterior drain.

You should then boil your kettle and let the water cool. It’s important that you don’t try to thaw the pipe with boiling water. Instead, let the water cool for approximately 15 minutes. Pour the warm water down the length of the pipe until the ice has thawed.

Once you’ve thawed the pipe, you’ll need to reset your boiler.

Common combi fault codes: Boiler is overheating

Your boiler overheating is a potentially dangerous problem, often caused by safety features failing – such as the pump, or a blockage in the system. Because of this, modern boilers are designed to lockout and display a fault code if the system detects signs of overheating to prevent serious damage.

Common combi fault codes: Component failure

Although modern boilers are resilient appliances, like any machine that uses advanced technology and complicated processes, component parts can degrade and break down over time.

If a component part of your boiler corrodes or becomes faulty, this could trigger a fault code and other warning signs, such as strange noises or changes in how your heating and hot water is functioning.

Depending on what component part has failed, it might be possible to simply repair or replace the part, rather than replacing the whole boiler.

If you’re experiencing regular breakdowns, contact The Heating People to find out whether it’s time to consider a boiler replacement.

Common combi fault codes for manufacturers

Different brands and models of boiler have different fault codes, which mean different things. But just in case you haven’t got your manual to hand, we’ve compiled some fault codes for but combi boilers from Worcester Bosch, Vaillant, and ATAG:

Worcester Bosch CDi Compact / Greenstar 25/30 Si Combi / Greenstar 27/30 i System

Fault Code	Problem
T1	Ignition test – checking the igniter spark
T2	Fan test – checking the basic fan
T3	Pump test – checking the basic pump
T4	Three way valve test
T6	Ionisation oscillator test
9A 362	error – incorrect HCM fitted
9U 233	Heat Control Module (HCM) error – problem with code plug
B7 257	Internal error – possible control board problem
C6 215	Fan problem – fan running too fast
C7 214	Fan problem – fan not running
D1 240	Return sensor error – sensor may be wet or damaged
E2 222	Flow sensor short circuit error
E5 218	Flow temperature too high
E9 219	Safety sensor fault – temperature too high, sensor short circuit or open circuit
EA 227	No flame detected or flame signal loss during operation
F0 237	Internal error
F7 228	Flame error – false flame or flame detected before burner started
FA 306	False flame fault – flame detect
FD 231	Mains power fault – electrical power interruption
FA 364	Gas valve EV2 leak test failed – gas valve leak
FB 365	Gas valve EV1 leak test failed
A1 281	Pump stuck or running with air in the system
C1 264	Airflow stopped during operation
C4 273	Airflow present during last 24 hour
D1 240	Return sensor short circuit
D4 271	Temperature difference between flow and safety sensor exceeds limit
E9 224	Max thermostat activated – flue gas thermostat overheat
EA 227	No ionisation detected after ignition
EF 349	Central heating boil detected – boiler operating at minimum burner load with temperature difference greater than 18°C between Flow & Return.
NO CODE 212	Safety or flow temperature rising too fast

ATAG

Alt attribute: ATAG logo

Fault code	Problem
10	Outside sensor error
20	Flow sensor error
40	Return sensor error
61	Bus communication error
78	Water pressure out of range
105	Venting program active when power turned on/interrupted (run for 7 mins)
110	Exceeded safety temperature
111	Exceeded maximum pressure
119	X2 link position 4 and 5 missing
129	Fan doesn’t start
133	No flame after 5 ignition attempts
151	Fan error or control unit defective (speed control is not achieved)
154	Return greater than flow – flow temperature increases too fast
101	Overheat error
102	Pressure sensor fault
104	Flow check failed
108	Pressure needs filling to <0.5 bar
1P4	Pressure needs filling to 0.5 – 0.8 bar
109	Pressure> Pmax error
110	Send probe damaged
112	Return probe error – could be damaged
114	Outdoor sensor error – could be damaged
141	Central heating flow switch is open
201	Domestic hot water (DHW) probe damaged
203	Tank probe damaged
303	Printed circuit board (PCB) error
304	Too many resets have occurred
501	No flame detected
612	Fan fault – fan isn’t starting up

ATAG IC and IS combi boiler error codes

Fault code	Problem
50	Domestic hot water (DHW) sensor error
117	Pressure greater than 3 bar or pump pressure increase is too high
118	Pressure less than 1 bar or pump pressure increase too low (no pump detection)

Vaillant

Fault code	Problem
F.00	Interruption: Flow sensor: NTC plug not plugged in or has come loose, multiple plug on the PCB not plugged in correctly, interruption in cable harness, NTC defective
F.01	Interruption: Return sensor: NTC plug not plugged in or has come loose, multiple plug on the PCB not plugged in correctly, interruption in cable harness, NTC defective
F.02	Interruption: DHW outlet sensor: Only in conjunction with F.91NTC defective, NTC cable defective, defective plug connection on NTC, defective plug connection on the actoSTOR electronics
F.03	Interruption: Cylinder sensor: Only in conjunction with F.91NTC defective, NTC cable defective, defective plug connection on NTC, defective plug connection on the actoSTOR electronics
F.10	Short circuit: Flow sensor: NTC defective, short circuit in cable harness, cable/casing
F.11	Short circuit: Return sensor: NTC defective, short circuit in cable harness, cable/casing
F.12	Short circuit: DHW outlet sensor: Only in conjunction with F.91NTC defective, short circuit in cable harness, cable/casing
F.13	Short circuit: Cylinder sensor: Combination product: Warm start sensor/cylinder sensor short circuitCombination product with actoSTOR: Short circuit cylinder sensor (NTC) only in combination with F.91NTC defective, short circuit in cable harness, cable/casing
F.20	Safety switch-off: Temperature limiter: Incorrect earth connection between cable harness and product, flow or return NTC defective (loose connection), black discharge via ignition cable, ignition plug or ignition electrode
F.22	Safety switch-off: Low water pressure: No or insufficient water in the product, water pressure sensor defective,
F.23	Safety switch-off: Temp.spread too large: Pump blocked, insufficient pump output, air in product, flow and return NTC connected the wrong way round
F.24	Safety switch-off: Temp. incr. too fast: Pump blocked, insufficient pump output, air in product, system pressure too low, non-return valve blocked/incorrectly installed
F.25	Safety switch-off: Flue temp. too high: Break in plug connection for optional flue gas safety temperature limiter (STB), break in cable harness
F.26	Fault: Fuel valve not working: Gas valve stepper motor not connected, multiple plug on the PCB not plugged in correctly, interruption in cable harness, gas valve stepper motor defective, electronics defective
F.27	Safety switch-off: Flame simulation: Moisture on the electronics, electronics (flame monitor) defective, gas solenoid valve leaking
F.28	Start-up failure: Ignit. unsuccessful: Gas meter defective or gas pressure monitor has triggered, air in gas, gas flow pressure too low, thermal isolator device (TAE) has triggered, condensate duct blocked, incorrect gas restrictor, incorrect spare part gas valve, value in D.052 does not correspond to the printed value on the current gas valve, fault on the gas valve, multiple plug on PCB incor- rectly plugged in, break in cable harness, ignition system (ignition trans- former, ignition cable, ignition plug, ignition electrode) defective, ionisa- tion current interrupted (cable, electrode), incorrect earthing of product, electronics defective
F.29	Start-up failure: Ignit. unsuccessful: Gas supply temporarily stopped, flue gas recirculation, condensate duct blocked, defective earthing of product, ignition transformer has spark failure
F.32	Fault: Fan: Plug on fan not correctly plugged in, multiple plug on PCB not correctly plugged in, break in cable harness, fan blocked, Hall sensor defective, electronics defective
F.49	Fault: eBUS: Short circuit on eBUS, eBUS overload or two power supplies with differ- ent polarities on the eBUS
F.52	Contact fault mass flow sensor/Venturi: The mass flow sensor/Venturi is not connected electrically – The plug is not plugged in correctly – The plug is not plugged in – The plug is defective – The slot is defective (loose connection) – Mass flow sensor/Venturi defective
F.53	Combustion regulation fault: The combustion regulation has detected a fault – Gas flow pressure too low – Liquid gas coding resistance used when operating with natural gas – If the fault occurs again after being cleared: – Gas valve defective – Mass flow sensor/Venturi defective, wet or blocked (if the fault occurs again after being cleared): Do not wet the sensor, do not use any lubricants on the O-ring on the Venturi.
F.54	Fault in the gas supply (in combination with F.28/F.29): There is insufficient gas supply to operate the unit – Gas isolator cock(s) closed – Gas flow pressure is too low – Gas valve defective
F.56	Safety switch-off: CO limit exceeded: Safety switch-off: CO limit exceededA component in the combustion regulation is defective– Contact fault at the gas valve (plug not plugged in correctly or not plugged in, plug defective, slot is defective (loose connection))– If the fault occurs again after being cleared: The gas valve is defective
F.57	Fault: Measuring program: Active comfort protection mode has detected a regulation fault– Ignition electrode highly corroded
F.61	Fault: Fuel valve actuation: The gas valve cannot be actuated– Cable harness supply line to the gas valve is defective (short to earth, short circuit)– Gas valve defective– PCB defective
F.62	Fault: Fuel valve switch-off delay: Delayed shutdown of gas valve detected– Secondary light (ignition and monitoring electrode indicates delayed extinguishing of the flame signal)– Gas valve defective– PCB defective
F.63	Fault: EEPROM: Electronics defectiv
F. 64	Fault: Electronics/sensor: Flow or return NTC short circuited, electronics defective
F.65	Fault: Electronics temp.: Electronics overheating due to external influences, electronics defective
F.67	Fault: Electronics/flame: Implausible flame signal, electronics defective
F.68	Fault: Flame signal unstable: Air in gas, gas flow pressure too low, incorrect air ratio, condensate duct blocked, ionisation flow interruption (cable, electrode), flue gas recirculation, condensate duct
F.70	Fault: Invalid Device Specific Number: If spare parts fitted: Display and PCB replaced at same time and DSN not reset, incorrect or missing output range coding resistance
F.71	Fault: Flow sensor: Flow temperature sensor signalling constant value:– Flow temperature sensor incorrectly positioned at supply pipe– Flow temperature sensor defective
F.72	Fault: Flow/return sensor: Flow/return NTC temperature difference too great → flow and/or returntemperature sensor defective
F.73	Fault: Water press. sensor: Interruption/short circuit of water pressure sensor, interruption/short circuit to GND in supply line to water pressure sensor or water pressure sensor defective
F.74	Fault: Water press. sensor: The line to the water pressure sensor has a short circuit to 5 V/24 V or internal fault in the water pressure sensor
F.75	Fault: Pump/ water shortage: Water pressure sensor and/or pump defective, air in the heating installa- tion, insufficient water in the product; connect external expansion vessel to the return
F.77	Fault: Flue non-ret. valve/condens. pump: No response from flue non-return flap or condensate pump defective
F.78	Interrupt.: DHW outlet sensor on ext. contr: UK link box is connected but the hot water NTC is not bridged
F.80	Fault: actoSTOR inlet sensor: Only in conjunction with F.91NTC defective, NTC cable defective, defective plug connection on NTC, defective plug connection on the actoSTOR electronicsSensor plug has short to earth to the casing, short circuit in cable har- ness, sensor defective
F.81	Fault: cylinder charging pump: Only in conjunction with F.91Cylinder is not fully charged after specified time.– Check cylinder charging sensor and cylinder sensor– Air in the actoSTOR pump– Inspect cable harness for pump– Check the impeller sensor and/or limiter in the product– Diverter valve defective– Secondary heat exchanger blocked– Pump faulty
F.83	Fault: NTC temp. gradient: When the burner starts, the temperature change registered at the flow and/or return temperature sensor is non-existent or too small.– Insufficient water in product– Flow or return temperature sensor not in correct position at pipe
F.84	Fault: NTC temp. diff. implausible: Flow and return temperature sensors returning implausible values.– Flow and return temperature sensors have been inverted– Flow and return temperature sensors have not been correctly in-stalled
F.85	Fault: NTCs fitted incorrectly: The flow and/or return temperature sensors have been installed on the same pipe/incorrect pipe
F.90	Fault: Communication: Check the cable harness from the product to the actoSTOR module (PEBus).If the product is to be operated without an actoSTOR module, setD.092 = 0.
F.91	Sensor/actuator fault on actoSTOR module
F.92	Coding resistance fault: The coding resistance on the PCB does not match the entered gas group: Check the resistance, repeat the gas family check and enter the correct gas group
F.93	Poor combustion quality: Combustion regulation has detected poor combustion quality– Incorrect gas restrictor has been installed for the gas family (anothergas family is present)– Recirculation– Mass flow sensor/Venturi defective (wet, blocked): Do not wet thesensor, do not use any lubricants on the O-ring on the Venturi.
LEDactoSTOR module	actoSTOR electronics status: LED on: Communication OKLED flashing: Communication not OK LED off: No power supply
Err	Communication fault: Communication fault between display and PCB in the electronics box

What should I do after I find out what my fault code means?

It is extremely important that you only perform actions on your boiler if your boiler manual instructs you to do so.

Any other work must be carried out by a Gas Safe Registered engineer.

If you are unsure about anything, you should call one of our experts at The Heating People.

Useful Links:

Vaillant servicing and repairs literature

Ideal boilers product literature

ATAG user instuctions for the i range

Worcester Bosch literature for Greenstar boilers

Worcester Bosch online help

0151 792 6245

Where’s the noise coming from?

Check for a fault code

Strange or unusual noises that your boiler might make

1. Noisy boiler: Gurgling boiler noises

Fixing the problem: bleeding your radiators

2. Noisy boiler: Banging or whistling boiler noises

Possible cause of kettling: Limescale build up

Possible cause of kettling: Faulty thermostat

Possible cause of kettling: Damaged pump

How to stop boiler kettling

3. Noisy boiler: Whooshing boiler noises

Possible cause of whooshing noises: Air intake pipe blockages

Possible cause of whooshing noises: Air filter blockages

How to stop whooshing noises

4. Noisy boiler: Humming or vibrating boiler noises

Possible cause of humming noises: Water pressure that is too high

Possible cause of humming noises: The boiler’s pump is seized up or is running too fast

Possible causes of humming noises: A loose component such as the bearings on the boiler fan

How to stop humming noises

5. Noisy boiler: Aeroplane or droning noises

How to stop aeroplane or droning noises

How to avoid boiler noises

Final thoughts

Useful Links:

Steps to your new boiler: Finding the right installer

Steps to your new boiler with The Heating People

1. Steps to your new boiler: First contact

2. Steps to your new boiler: Survey

3. Steps to your new boiler: Quotation

4. Steps to your new boiler: Booking

5. Steps to your new boiler: Arrival of the engineer at your home

6. Steps to your new boiler: Protecting your home

7. Steps to your new boiler: Draining your old system

8. Steps to your new boiler: Test the gas for leaks

9. Steps to your new boiler: Removal of the old boiler

10. Steps to your new boiler: Flush and clean

11. Steps to your new boiler: Upgrade and change pipework if required

12. Steps to your new boiler: Making good

13. Steps to your new boiler: Fitting the boiler

14. Steps to your new boiler: Controls

15. Steps to your new boiler: Commissioning of the system

16. Steps to your new boiler: Handover

17. Steps to your new boiler: Register the boiler

How long does it take to install a new boiler?

Final thoughts…

Useful links:

Who is Worcester Bosch?

Introducing the new Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000

Key features of the Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000

The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 is energy efficient

The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 features SimpleSwitch technology

The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 comes with a hefty guarantee

The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 is stylish

The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 has a pioneering control display

The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 has hot water flow rates up to 12.3 l/min.

The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 has intelligent auto-filling

The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 has frost-protection

The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 has quieter operation

How does the the Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 compare to the i series?

Final thoughts…

Useful Links:

What does the law say?

1. Landlords must provide access to heating and hot water – The Landlord and Tenant Act 1985;

2. Landlords are responsible for repairs, and must keep the heating in proper working order

3. Landlords must react to any heating problems that may occur within a few days after the tenants’ notification

4. Landlords must keep the property free from hazards

5. Landlords must arrange an annual gas safety check of all gas appliances in the property

What happens during a Gas Safety check for landlords?

6. Landlords should bleed the radiators at the start of the tenancy agreement. Once occupied, bleeding radiators becomes the tenants’ responsibility

7. Landlords must ensure that their property meets the current minimum energy efficiency requirements

General tips for landlords

Tip: make sure external pipes are well insulated

Tip: Look at your windows and doors

Tip: Have your chimneys swept

Check extractor fans

Encourage your tenants to use the heating

Test smoke alarms and CO detectors

Tip: Check your insurance

Final thoughts…