Category: Advice

Advice

How much does a boiler cost?

Post author By Lucy
Post date March 14, 2022
No Comments on How much does a boiler cost?

If you’ve decided it’s time for a new boiler; there’s a good chance you’re feeling daunted by all of the different makes and models, and are wondering how much it’s likely to cost.

There are lots of factors that contribute to the cost of a new boiler, but this handy guide explains why the cost of a new boiler can vary. And will help you to understand how much you can expect to pay.

You might like our related blog: Boiler FAQs.

To start with, you’ll need to consider why you’re looking for a new boiler, and what type of boiler you need…

Why are you looking for a new boiler?

There are many reasons why you might be looking for a new boiler. And ultimately, the cost of a boiler will depend on what your heating and hot water needs are; and what you’re hoping to achieve from your new heating system.

Although we only tend to think about our boilers when they’re on the blink, there are lots of benefits of replacing an operational boiler, so you might be planning ahead.

But whether you’re replacing a boiler because your old one has stopped working; or you’re looking to improve your energy efficiency; remember that a cheaper initial outlay could cost you more down the line in fuel bills.

Although some modern boilers can be pricey, they could potentially save you money in the long run, by improving the energy efficiency of your home.

What type of boiler do I need?

The next question to help determine cost, is what type of boiler you need. And whether this is a different type of system from what you already have.

Naturally, it will cost more to overhaul a whole heating system, rather than replacing like for like.

There are three main types of boilers: heat-only or conventional boilers; combination or ‘combi’ boilers; and system boilers.

Heat-only boilers

‘Conventional’ or ‘regular’ boilers are sometimes known as ‘heat-only’ because very simply; the boiler provides the heating and a cylinder provides hot water.

These boilers have both a hot water cylinder (usually in the airing cupboard) and a cold-water storage tank in the attic or loft.

Heat-only boilers need a large feed tank which is usually stored in an attic or loft. This tank receives cold water from the mains and feeds it down to your boiler.

Once the fuel has been ignited, the heat exchanger warms water which is then transported to the hot-water cylinder by a pump.

This stored hot-water is then sent to your taps and radiators when you need it.

The main advantage of this system is that they work well in large households with multiple bathrooms because they can supply large amounts of hot water to multiple outlets at the same time.

They can also be fitted with an additional electrical immersion heater to provide you with back-up hot water in case your boiler ever suffers a breakdown.

The price of installing a conventional system will vary depending on your current situation and needs, but as a rough guide, the three cost scenarios are:

Replacing a heat-only boiler with a new heat-only boiler will cost between £1800-3000.
Upgrading from a heat-only boiler to a combi boiler will cost between £2200-£3500.
Switching from a heat-only to a system boiler will cost between £1800-3000.

Combi Boilers

Combis are the most popular boiler type in the UK. They get their name because they provide both your heating and hot water from one all-in-one (combined) unit, with no need for external cylinders or tanks.

Combis can heat water directly from the mains when you turn on a hot tap. They typically have two heat exchangers, one for your heating (radiators) and the other for your hot water supply.

The primary heat exchanger focuses on your radiators and carries hot water around your home. The secondary exchanger is for heating the water that comes out of your taps.

The main advantages of combi systems are that they are space saving, due to there only being one component part, and they never run out of hot water.

The price of installing a combi boiler will vary depending on your current system and needs, but as a rough guide, there are two main cost scenarios here:

The new combi boiler is replacing an existing combi boiler – this will cost between £1800-3000.
Upgrading from a conventional boiler to a Combi boiler will cost between £2200-£3500.

System Boilers

System boilers feature aspects of both a conventional boiler and a combi.

Like a heat-only boiler, a system boiler needs a hot water storage cylinder to heat and store hot water for your taps.

But it doesn’t need a tank in the attic because, like a combi, it takes its water supply directly from the mains.

This cold water is then heated via a heat exchanger, which transfers energy from the gas jets to the water. Once heated, the water is pumped into a large hot water cylinder, where it is stored until required.

Since there is a large store of hot water always available, a steady supply can be maintained even if multiple taps or showers are in use at the same time.

Similarly, to heat-only boilers, a main advantage of system boilers is that they work well in large households as they can supply hot water simultaneously to multiple bathrooms as it’s stored in the hot water tank.

It is unlikely that someone would wish to swap their existing system boiler for a combi or heat-only boiler, so the main cost scenario for a system boiler would be:

Replacing a system boiler with a new system boiler will cost between £1800-3000.

You can read about the pros and cons of system boilers here.

What brand of boiler?

Just like with anything you buy, be it a mobile phone, or a pair of trainers; the brand (or manufacturer) of boiler that you choose can make a difference to the price that you’ll pay.

We often get asked: ‘which brand is best?’ by people looking for a new boiler.

People will often seek out the big brands when it comes to buying mobile phones and other gadgets, and want to know whether this is a tactic they should use when getting a new boiler.

But just as there’s no ‘one-size-fits-all’ boiler for everybody, there’s no ‘right’ boiler brand either. Each brand (and individual model within the brand) has their own pros and cons, which need to be weighed up for your particular needs.

But it’s definitely a good idea to do a bit of research into what options are available, so that you can make an informed choice on what will be the hardest working appliance in your home for at least the next decade.

The Heating People are not tied to any manufacturer and can work with the brand of your choice. But we have our favourites!

We are:

Vaillant Advance Installers;
Worcester Bosch Accredited Installers;
ATAG Selected Partners;
Viessmann Trained Installers.

Generally our favourites for the three different types of boiler system are as follows:

Worcester or ATAG for conventional boilers.

Vaillant ecoTEC Exclusive 835 with Green iQ and the ATAG iC Economiser Plus for combi boilers – due to their in-built FGHRS.

ATAG for system boilers due to the advanced control options available; high build quality; and relatively low cost.

To find out more about our top 5 combi boilers of 2022, check out our related blog here.

What size boiler do I need?

When people talk about how powerful your boiler needs to be they are referring to the kW (kilowatt) output, rather than the physical size of the appliance itself.

The higher the kW output of a boiler, the more it can cope with your heating and hot water demands.

You need to choose a boiler that can cope with the heating demands of your home.

But this isn’t as easy as it sounds. It’s vital that you don’t oversize or undersize your boiler.

If you choose a boiler that’s too big, you’ll be wasting energy and paying over the odds on your bills.

But if it’s too small, it might not be powerful enough to heat your home, or give you enough hot water.

Size with a heat loss calculation

But don’t worry – The Heating People will find the perfect size boiler for your needs by conducting a whole house heat loss calculation. This is included as standard as part of your free quotation, and it is industry best practice under The Building Regulations.

Beware of any engineer that wants to size a boiler by counting your radiators – this is completely inaccurate!

A heat loss calculation only takes about ten minutes on site. We use heat engineer software, as this gives us an accurate enough calculation to be able to size a gas or oil boiler.

For more detailed calculations for renewable energy systems or if your house is borderline between two boiler sizes, we can complete a room-by-room cross calculation for a more accurate result.

Rough guide to boiler size

But since we get asked this a lot, here is a very rough guide on the kW boiler that will cater to your home.

24 – 30 kW Combi

Suitable to provide heating and hot water to a home with one bathroom. If you have an en suite with an electric shower, this size of boiler will still be suitable.

30-36 kW Combi

Suitable for homes with two bathrooms.

For larger homes with more than two bathrooms, a storage combination boiler or stored hot water should be considered. Although larger combi boilers are available, they’re often not the best solution.

How much does it cost to install a new boiler?

The price of replacing a boiler costs less than you might think. It obviously depends on what you are changing from, and what you are changing to. But as a rough guide, at The Heating People:

Replacing an existing combi boiler with a new combi boiler will cost between £1800-3000.

Upgrading from a heat-only boiler to a combi boiler will cost between £2200-£3500.

Replacing a heat-only boiler with a new heat-only boiler will cost between £1800-3000.

Switching from a heat-only to a system boiler will cost between £1800-3000.

Swapping a system boiler with a new system boiler will cost between £1800-3000.

Contact The Heating People today to arrange your free quotation.

What’s involved in a new boiler installation?

Once you have decided you need a boiler replacement, you may be wondering what process you can expect from The Heating People.

Although all homes and heating systems are different, this is a rough guide to the work included in the cost of an installation with us:

Survey

When you get in touch, we’ll arrange a convenient time to carry out a survey of your home.

On this visit we will discuss your wants and needs from your new heating system, review your existing system, and discuss the options available to you.

We’ll also take some technical measurements such as water flow rate, and we’ll measure your home for an estimated heat loss calculation. This enables us to determine the correct boiler for your home.

Quotation

After visiting your home, we’ll send you a fixed price quotation. This will have details of the boilers we recommend based on your survey, together with any accessories and options that you may wish to add to your quotation.

Booking

Once you’ve decided to go ahead with the work, we’ll take a small deposit and confirm your installation date.

Arrival of the engineer at your home

On installation day, your engineer will discuss the planned work with you. They’ll explain where they need access to, and for how long, so that you can plan your day.

Protecting your home

Rest assured that your engineer will take good care of your home, and will put down floor coverings in all work areas and transit routes, so that your carpets will be protected from any debris.

Draining your old system

Your engineer may need to switch off your water for a short period while they drain down your old system.

Test the gas for leaks

Your engineer will complete a let by and gas tightness test to ensure that your gas emergency control valve is working correctly, and that there are no leaks on your gas pipework.

Removal of the old boiler

Your engineer will remove the old boiler and any old redundant equipment.

Flush and clean

Depending on what we have discussed during the quotation stage, we will use the flushing method agreed upon, to ensure that your heating system is clean for your new boiler.

This will help to preserve the guarantee on your new boiler; extend the life of your boiler; help to prevent future breakdowns; and improve the efficiency of your heating system.

Upgrade and change pipework if required

To fit your new boiler properly, your engineer may need to alter or upgrade pipework. The Heating People use only copper or professional press fit systems; we do not use DIY style push-fit systems.

Making good

Where your new boiler’s flue is in a new position, we will make good the existing flue hole, with bricks that are of a close match to your home.

Fitting the boiler

Your engineer will then install your new boiler, the boiler flue, and make all the pipework connections.

Controls

Your engineer will then fit controls and accessories as agreed, such as: temperature sensors; thermostats; timers; system filters; and filling loops.

Commissioning of the system

Your engineer will then fill; test; set to work; and commission your system; filling out all commissioning test results in your benchmark log book.

This will document all safety test results and confirm that the installation complies with safety regulations.

Handover

Your engineer will then complete a handover with you when all the work is complete. This ensures that you are as informed as possible on how to operate the boiler, how to use all the controls, and how to get the best efficiency from your system.

Register the boiler

Once The Heating People have installed your new boiler, we will register it with the manufacturers to activate its guarantee and we will notify your local building control via the Gas Safe Register.

How long does it take to install a new boiler?

How long a boiler replacement will take, will vary depending on what work is needed, if your boiler is moving location or if you have a like-for-like boiler. It usually takes between 1-3 days.

Final thoughts…

We hope that you’ve found this blog useful.

If you would like to talk to someone about the cost of replacing or upgrading your heating system, please contact one of our team at The Heating People, who will be happy to help you.

You might like our related blog: 6 Top tips for replacing your boiler.

Advice

6 Signs that you need a new boiler

Post author By Lucy
Post date March 7, 2022
No Comments on 6 Signs that you need a new boiler

6 signs that you need a new boiler…

Is your boiler past its best?

Boilers are hardworking appliances that have been known to keep ticking over for twenty years or more! But like anything, they don’t perform at their best forever.

Even if your boiler is still running, you might benefit from a boiler replacement.

And it’s worth thinking about it before your boiler packs in completely; and you’re left with no heating or hot water!

So, if your boiler is over ten years old; is underperforming; or has become a bit temperamental – it could be time to consider a boiler replacement.

By replacing your old boiler with a new efficient model, you could save money on your energy bills. Whilst also benefiting from increased comfort and control.

To help you decide whether it’s time for an upgrade; we’ve put together this list of 6 signs that you need a new boiler.

For tailored advice, contact one of our friendly team at The Heating People, to book your free survey.

How Long Does a Boiler Last?

The average lifespan of a boiler is between 10 and 15 years. But they can exceed this standard lifespan with regular servicing by a Gas Safe engineer.

But as we mentioned earlier, even if your boiler is still running, it’s worth considering a replacement if it’s old.

This is because boilers that pre-date the Boiler Plus Regulations are far less efficient than modern ones. So you’ll be paying over the odds on your energy bills.

The Heating and Hotwater Industry Council (HHIC) say that there’s a real problem with so-called ‘zombie boilers’; lurking around UK homes.

According to the HHIC, 4 million people are still using outdated and inefficient boilers; that are bad for your wallet, as well as the environment.

Signs that you need a new boiler

When your boiler completely conks out, it’s easy to see there’s a problem! But what are the more subtle signs that suggest your boiler isn’t running smoothly?

Here are 6 signs that indicate it might be time for a boiler replacement:

1. Your boiler is old

Just because your boiler is knocking on a bit, doesn’t necessarily mean it should be sent to the scrap heap.

But age (and its energy efficiency rating) is definitely a key consideration when you’re thinking about a boiler replacement.

Most boilers last around 10 to 15 years. But with regular servicing, your ten-year-old boiler might still have a few good years left in it.

But it can sometimes be more economical to replace an aging and inefficient boiler, rather than hanging on to it.

Older boilers may start to deteriorate, costing you money on repairs. Most boiler warranty periods are around the ten-year mark. And repairing a boiler that has exhausted its warranty, can be expensive.

Even if your old boiler seems to be ticking over smoothly; it might be costing you over the odds on your energy bills.

Heating technology has come a long way in recent years. And your old boiler simply won’t be able to compete with the efficiency and control options of a newer model.

2. Your old boiler isn’t A-rated

When considering the age of your boiler, you should look at its energy efficiency rating.

Since heating accounts for about 60% of your fuel bill, having an efficient boiler can help to reduce your bills. And this is more important than ever, given the current high price of gas!

To check how efficient your boiler is; look for a little sticker on your boiler with an energy efficiency rating on it.

The Energy Related Products (ErP) energy scale is a seven-point colour scale. Starting from dark green (A-rated and most efficient) down to red (G-rated and least efficient).

If your boiler is old or you can’t find a sticker; you can use your boiler’s model number to find out it’s efficiency rating. The Greenage has a good article on how to do this. We’ve linked to this at the end of this blog.

But once you’ve found it…

Your boiler will be rated on a scale from A-G, with A being the most energy efficient.

All new boilers must be A-rated for energy efficiency, meaning they have an energy efficiency of 90% or more. But if your boiler’s very old, it may be much lower than this.

An old G-rated boiler has an efficiency of 70% or less. This means that for every £1 you spend on your heating bill you are wasting 30p on lost energy.

So, if your boiler is old and inefficient, you should definitely be considering a replacement! You might like our related blog: How to choose an energy efficient boiler.

3. Your boiler isn’t performing like it used to

Sometimes your boiler will carry on working, but only just!

If you’ve noticed that your boiler is struggling to perform like it used to; it could be time to consider a replacement.

You should ask yourself whether you’ve noticed any of the following:

Your radiators are taking ages to warm up

If you’ve noticed that your radiators are taking forever to get hot; or your home never feels warm enough; it could be a sign that your boiler is on its way out.

But sluggish radiators could also be caused by air or sludge in your heating system.

If air or sludge is present in your radiators; there will be less space for hot water to circulate; which can result in your radiators feeling cool, or having distinct cold spots.

So, you should eliminate these two possible problems first.

Start by bleeding your radiators, to release any trapped air. This is a straightforward task that you can do yourself with just your radiator key.

If this doesn’t improve things, you should ask a Gas Safe engineer about a power flush.

If the issue is with your boiler, you need to consider a replacement. Otherwise, you’ll have a boiler on at full blast, causing high heating bills, and only a cool home to show for it!

You keep running out of hot water

If you find that you’re regularly running out of hot water for your baths, showers, or other normal household activities, it could be a sign that your family has outgrown your boiler.

This is more likely if it’s been a very long time since your boiler was installed, or if you inherited the boiler when you bought the house.

If you have a combi boiler, but you have multiple bathrooms, or several family members all wanting to use hot water at the same time, it might be time to change to a heat-only or system boiler.

Heat-only and system boilers are able to meet much higher demands for hot water because they store large quantities of hot water in a cylinder, and can supply multiple outlets at the same time.

Your heating engineer will be able to specify the correct size and type of boiler for your needs.

Your boiler has suddenly stopped producing hot water

If your boiler has suddenly stopped producing any hot water, or your water is always tepid, you could have a pressure fault or a problem with your heat exchanger.

Your heating engineer will establish the cause of your hot water problems and will be able to advise whether a fault can be repaired economically, or whether a replacement is on the cards.

4. Your boiler is frequently breaking down

If it seems like there’s always something wrong with your boiler, and you’re constantly paying out for repairs, it may be time to bite the bullet and get a replacement.

It can be a false economy to ‘mend and make do’, especially if finding replacement parts for your boiler is difficult and expensive because of its age.

The money you’re spending on repairs and emergency call-outs could be better put towards a reliable and efficient new boiler.

You’ll benefit from the peace of mind that comes with a substantial boiler warranty, and you might save some money on your energy bills too.

5. Your boiler or radiators are noisy

Does it sound like there’s aircraft taking off in your utility room?!

Does your boiler sound like a kettle?

Have you noticed banging, whistling, whooshing or gurgling noises coming from your heating system?

Some noises are an inevitable part of the heating process, but if you’ve noticed any unfamiliar, loud or strange noises, you should get them checked right away.

Strange noises are a warning sign that your boiler is out of kilter, and they shouldn’t be ignored. Failing to address the issue could pose a safety risk; a more expensive repair bill; or result in the need for a replacement that could have been avoided.

Your heating engineer will determine the cause of the strange noises and will advise you on whether repairs or replacements are needed in your situation.

6. Your boiler is leaking

Forgive us for pointing out the obvious, but puddles of water around your boiler are a bad sign!

And it’s also possible to have a leak that you can’t see. If you’ve noticed low water pressure or a slower than usual heating process, these might also indicate you have a leak somewhere in your system.

Unfortunately, a water leak is a clear indication that your boiler itself, or its pipes, are not working.

There are several possible causes of leaks, from high boiler pressure; corroded pipes; loose joints; problems with the pump or heat exchanger; to simple wear and tear over time.

But whatever the culprit, you should contact a Gas Safe heating engineer without delay. Ignoring a leak could lead to serious damage.

Some leaks, such as those caused by loose joints, may have a cheap and easy fix. But leaks caused by a heavily corroded heat exchanger, might spell the end of the road for your boiler.

7. Your energy bills are increasing without explanation

If you’ve noticed your energy bills or your energy meter are going up faster than normal – and this isn’t just because of the price cap going up in April 2022 – it could be that your boiler is inefficient.

As we mentioned earlier, if you have an old boiler which pre-dates the Boiler Plus Regulations, it will be inefficient, and will cost you more to run.

Modern boilers are A-rated and operate at more than 90% efficiency, whilst old G-rated models run at 70% or less.

Boilers also lose efficiency over time. So if your boiler started life at 70% efficiency, it’s probably pretty dire fifteen years down the line!

The Energy Saving Trust estimates that if you replace an old G-rated boiler with a modern A-rated boiler that has a full set of heating controls, you could save around £350 a year on your heating bill.

But with the price of gas now set to rise by 54%, the savings are likely to be even greater!

Should I repair or replace my boiler?

If your boiler isn’t old, and it only breaks down occasionally, or only needs minor repairs then you probably don’t need a replacement. But your heating engineer will be able to give you tailored advice after assessing your system.

How much will a new boiler cost?

The price of replacing a boiler costs less than you might think. It obviously depends on what you are changing from, and what you are changing to. But as a rough guide, at The Heating People a boiler replacement costs between £1800-£3000.

But don’t worry if you don’t know what type of boiler you need. The Heating People are experts at finding the right type and size of boiler for your home and lifestyle.

We can offer extended guarantees of up to 14 years on our boilers, for your peace of mind.

Contact one of our team today to book your free survey.

Final thoughts

When your boiler reaches its golden years, or starts acting up, it can be hard to know whether you should keep repairing it or replace it with a new model.

So, we hope that this guide has been helpful in highlighting some of the signs that it might be time to invest in a new boiler for your home.

If you choose to replace your old boiler, you’ll potentially benefit from:

increased home comfort;
more control over your heating system;
reduced energy bills;
reduced carbon footprint;
the peace of mind that a reliable new boiler brings; and
a substantial warranty on your new boiler.

For tailored advice on the best heating solution for your home, contact one of our friendly team today.

Useful Links

HHIC: Zombie boilers

The Greenage: How efficient is my boiler?.

Advice

The best combi boilers 2022

Post author By Lucy
Post date March 1, 2022
No Comments on The best combi boilers 2022

Wondering if it’s time for a boiler replacement? If so, you’ll want to know what the best combi boilers of 2022 are…

With combi boilers being the most popular type of boiler installed in the UK today; it’s no real surprise that there’s a lot of choice when it comes to the make and model. And this can be overwhelming!

At The Heating People, we pride ourselves on finding the perfect boiler to meet your needs and budget. But if you want to get the lowdown on our personal favorites before your survey, then this blog’s for you!

We believe that Vaillant, ATAG, and Worcester Bosch offer the best boilers on the market.

All these brands offer outstanding engineering, efficiency, reliability and guarantees. So, whichever you choose, you’ll have a great boiler.

But in no particular order, here are our top 5…

1. The ATAG iC Economiser Plus

ATAG describe their revolutionary iC Economiser Plus boiler as: ‘the combi of the future’; because of its revolutionary industry-leading innovation. And we would have to agree that it’s pretty special.

The main reason we love ATAG’s iC Economiser Plus; is because it has an in-built flue gas heat recovery system (FGHRS).

Flue Gas Heat Recovery Systems or ‘FGHRS’ are energy devices. They enable your boiler to reuse or ‘recycle’ heat that would otherwise be wasted as gases out of the flue.

This means that you’ll need to burn less fuel to heat your home; saving you money on your energy bills, whilst also reducing your carbon footprint.

The fact that the Economiser has this built in; means that it is automatically compliant with the Boiler Plus legislation, which sets out the law on boiler efficiency.

In case you didn’t know; the Boiler Plus requires that all new combi boilers have one of four energy saving devices fitted:

Flue Gas Heat Recovery;
weather compensation;
load compensation;
or smart controls with automation and optimisation functions.

So, by having built-in FGHRS, no other add-ons are needed to make the Economiser Boiler Plus compliant.

What are the other key features of the iC Economiser?

Let’s look at why we rate the ATAG Economiser…

Highly reputable company that is loved by customers

We’re proud to be ATAG Selected Partners. Because ATAG’s boilers aren’t just the most efficient in Europe, they’re built to last.

ATAG don’t skimp on their components, using only the highest quality stainless steel and brass components.

This is why they come with the longest warranties on the market. ATAG is a favourite with customers too, and is the UK’s highest rated boiler brand on Trustpilot.

iCon stainless steel heat exchanger

We also love the Economiser because of its unique iCon heat exchanger. The heat exchanger is a vital component in all boilers. It’s the bit that transfers the heat from the fuel (usually gas) to the water.

What’s special about this one is that it’s made from stainless steel and; uniquely, it maintains 98% of its original efficiency levels throughout its lifetime. It therefore comes with a unique lifetime replacement guarantee.

According to ATAG, it is the most efficient heat exchanger in Europe, with the lowest Nitrogen Oxide (NOx) emissions.

Guarantee of up to 14 years

ATAG has such faith in their boilers, that they come with hefty guarantees. Every ATAG boiler carries a 10 year guarantee as standard with options up to 14 years.

This means that if something goes wrong with your boiler within the guarantee period; ATAG will cover the cost of all parts and labour.

So you can be pretty confident that if you choose to invest in an ATAG boiler; you’ll have peace of mind for at least a decade!

But you need to have an annual service with a Gas Safe engineer in order to preserve your guarantee.

Excellent energy efficiency

All ATAG boilers are ErP (Energy-related Products) A-rated. And adding an ATAG ONE or TADO V3+ internet-connected Smart controller; can further boost your heating system efficiency to an impressive 98% (also known as A+).

A more efficient boiler doesn’t just help the planet by reducing your carbon footprint. It also reduces your energy bills since it needs to burn less fuel to do its job.

More efficient with third party smart controls

All the boilers featured in this blog are compatible with third party smart controls, such as Nest and Honeywell. This means that you have much greater control over your heating, from wherever you are, at any time of day.

You’ll have smarter control of your heating, remote access, and the promise from manufacturers of energy savings of between 20-30%.

However, another reason we love ATAG, is because ATAG works better with third party controls than boilers from other manufacturers.

This is because ATAG Speaks in open language or ‘opentherm’. Rather than the simple on/off communication used by the other boilers; opentherm allows two-way communication between your boiler and smart controller.

Weather compensation

As well as having built in FGHRS, ATAG’s combi boilers also come with an outside weather compensator. Which is yet another of the four energy saving devices from the Boiler Plus legislation.

The Heating People favour weather compensation over other energy efficiency devices; because it offers the biggest efficiency gain and is a simple technology to integrate.

Weather compensation devices monitor both the temperature inside your home, and the temperature outside, and adjust your boiler’s operation accordingly.

This allows your boiler to run at a lower temperature; saving energy (and money) and avoids spikes of over and under heating.

Available in three sizes

The Economiser comes in three power outputs: 27kW (12.6 litres); 35kW (16.1 litres); and 39 kW (17 litres).

This means that there will be a size to meet your home and lifestyle. But don’t worry about knowing what size you need. We’ll calculate that for you through a heat loss calculation during your survey.

2. The Vaillant ecoTEC exclusive with green iQ

The EcoTEC exclusive with green iQ is Vaillant’s premium boiler. And they describe it as ‘the best in the business’ – and we rate it too.

The ecoTEC exclusive is one of our favourites because it has Vaillant’s unique Green iQ mark. This means it gives you the ultimate in energy efficiency, the lowest fuel consumption and lowest running costs.

Another nifty thing about this boiler is that it’s so smart it can adapt itself. So it’s always giving you the precise level of heat you need – which means less waste and lower fuel bills.

It’s best suited to homes with a high demand for hot water and central heating. For example, a property with more than 3 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms/en suites.

What are the other key features of the ecoTEC exclusive?

Let’s look at why we like the Vaillant ecoTEC Exclusive…

Highly reputable company that is loved by customers

We’re proud to be Vaillant Advance Installers.

Vaillant has built up a solid reputation for quality over the last 140 years. Vaillant actually invented the combi boiler and their award-winning boilers are renowned for their reliability, performance and efficiency.

Excellent energy efficiency

Vaillant pride themselves on their focus on sustainability, with ‘thinking ahead’ being their motto. This is reflected in their products’ high energy efficiency ratings and low emissions.

All Vaillant boilers are ErP (Energy-related Products) A-rated; which can be further boosted to A+-rated when combined with their vSMART heating controls.

FGHRS

Another fantastic thing about the exclusive (as with the ATAG iC Economiser), is that it comes with in-built FGHRS. This helps improve efficiency, and reduce energy bills.

Green iQ

The ecoTEC exclusive has green iQ. This is Vaillant’s quality label for green technology. Only appliances that meet highest standards in the fields of sustainability, efficiency and connectivity have the green iQ label.

The reason for the ecoTEC exclusive carrying the label is that it has an impressive modulation of 1:10; which gives the boiler a high level of efficiency with lower fuel bills. The boiler can adapt itself to give only the exact heating output you require, ultimately lowering fuel bills.

The exclusive is Vaillant’s most eco-friendly boiler, with 85% of its parts being recyclable at the end of its life.

Quiet mark approved

If noise from your boiler bothers you, then a Vaillant might just be for you. Even when running at their full capacity, Vaillant boilers are renowned for their quiet performance.

Just like all of their models, the exclusive has been awarded the Quiet Mark accreditation; by the International Eco-Award Scheme; to manufacturers of the quietest products.

Guarantee of up to 10 years

The exclusive comes with a 5-year guarantee as standar. This can be extended to 7 years when you book a Vaillant Advance installer. Or 10 years when fitted with a Boiler Protection Kit by a Vaillant Advance installer, such as The Heating People.

Available in two combi models covering 35 or 43kW output

The ecoTEC exclusive range consists of two large output combi boilers, which are suitable for larger homes with multiple bathrooms. The 43kW model delivers Vaillant’s highest ever flow rate of 17.8 l/min.

3. The Vaillant ecoTEC plus

The ecoTEC plus is a higher spec version of the Vaillant ecoTEC pro. And is described by Vaillant as their ‘flagship’ boiler.

With its range of heating outputs; it’s flexible enough to meet the demands of a whole range of different homes and lifestyles.

It’s an efficient choice because its smart technology means that it knows when you don’t need as much heating power. And can drop to using 16% of its maximum power, which is better for the environment, and your wallet!

The ecoTEC plus is typically best suited to medium sized properties (from 2 bedrooms with 1 bathroom to 3 bedrooms with 1 bathrooms + ensuite).

What are the other key features of the ecoTEC plus?

In addition to what we’ve already said about Vaillant as a company; here are some of the reasons why the ecoTEC plus is one of our favourite combis:

Available in four combi models

The Vaillant ecoTEC plus comes in four combi models: 25, 32, 35 or 38kW heating outputs. This means that there will be an option to suit your home and lifestyle.

Guarantee of up to 10 years

The EcoTEC plus comes with a 5-year guarantee as standard; which can be extended to 7 years when you book a Vaillant Advance installer. Or 10 years when fitted with a Boiler Protection Kit by a Vaillant Advance installer, such as The Heating People.

Quiet mark approved

As with all their models, the ecoTEC plus is Quiet Mark approved, so it’s whisper quiet!

User friendly

The ecoTEC plus has a standard control panel installed on the front of the boiler; which is hidden away by a flap. The display on the front will also show any fault codes if something has gone wrong with the boiler. This makes it easier for engineers to be able to diagnose the problem quickly.

4. The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000

New for 2021, the Greenstar 4000 is the new and improved successor to the hugely popular Greenstar i.

Worcester describe the Greenstar 4000 as being ‘instantly familiar and yet totally transformed’.

It features many of the much-loved features of the i series; whilst boasting improvements in speed and ease of installation; commissioning and servicing; alongside improvements in efficiency and control.

And the good news? Worcester have priced it the same as its predecessor.

To find out how the Greenstar 4000 compares to the old Greenstar i, check out our related blog here.

What are the other key features of the Greenstar 4000?

Let’s look at why we rate the Greenstar 4000…

Highly reputable company that is loved by customers

The Worcester Bosch Group has built up a solid reputation for quality over the last 50 years. Which? has helped them to become a household name by giving them the highest brand score for several years running.

Feedback from customers is consistently positive for Worcester Bosch, indicating a high level of customer satisfaction.

YouGov have ranked Worcester Bosch as the UK’s best value boiler brand; the most recommended boiler brand; and the best quality boiler brand.

You can check out other reasons why you should consider a Worcester boiler here.

10 year guarantee

Worcester Bosch provides hefty 10-year warranties. So you can have peace of mind that should anything go wrong, you’ll be covered.

However, this is only when the boiler is installed by a Worcester Accredited Installer, such as The Heating People. You’ll also need to have your boiler serviced annually to maintain your guarantee.

Excellent energy efficiency

The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 is A-rated for energy efficiency, with an impressive 94% efficiency.

And according to Worcester Bosch; adding a Bosch EasyControl internet-connected Smart controller to their Greenstar range of boilers; can further boost your heating system efficiency to an impressive 98% (also known as A+).

The Greenstar 4000 has a 1:10 modulation range that reduces gas consumption, energy bills and wear and tear on components.

The 25 and 30kW combi can modulate down to 3kW and the 12kW system to just 1.9kW!

So, as well as being environmentally friendly; this can save you a lot of money on your energy bills. What’s not to like?!

Stylish

The Greenstar 4000 is Worcester Bosch’s mid-range boiler, sitting between the 2000 and 8000 boilers.

But this boiler could easily be mistaken for the premium 8000 Lifestyle range of boilers. With its curved edges; and LCD digital display; it’s a more modern look compared to the traditional white box in the corner.

User friendly LCD control panel

The Greenstar 4000 has a pioneering control display which is similar to the 8000 Style. The user-friendly LCD display provides you with complete control of the boiler and heating system; for faster commissioning and future fault-finding, system control, servicing and current boiler status.

Available in 25 kw and 30kw combi boilers

You can also opt for a system boiler in 12kW, 15kW, 18kW, 21kW and 24kW outputs.

You might be interested in our related blog: Worcester Bosch Greenstar 2000 .

5. The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 8000 Life

The Greenstar 8000 Life is part of Worcester Bosch’s Lifestyle range, which is the premium offering from the brand.

The Greenstar 8000 Life is a direct replacement for the much loved Worcester Bosch Greenstar CDi Classic.

It retains all of the popular features of the Classic, but features a modern new design; greater energy efficiency; and a range of other extras designed to make controlling your heating and hot water easier.

What are the other key features of the Greenstar 8000 Life?

In addition to what we’ve already said about Worcester Bosch as a company, here are some of the reasons why the Greenstar Life is one of our favourite combis:

Excellent energy efficiency

The Greenstar Life is A rated for energy efficiency, and exceeds the energy efficiency of the CDi Classic; with 94% energy efficiency available.

It also has an increased modulation ratio (1:10); to improve fuel efficiency, user comfort and boiler longevity by preventing on/off cycling.

Design-led aesthetics

Up until recently, boilers have been thought of as ugly white boxes that are hidden away out of sight.

But Worcester Bosch have turned that on its head.

Their Lifestyle range of boilers feature sleek and contemporary design reminiscent of an iPhone.

Rather than being hidden away in a cupboard; these Lifestyle boilers are styled specifically to look great taking centre stage in modern kitchens.

The Life is available in gloss white, but with the Style, you can also choose gloss black – an industry first!

Powerful

Both Lifestyle boilers are available in outputs of up to 50kW for combi boilers. Making them the most powerful wall hung combi boilers on the market.

This means that they’re suitable for larger properties with multiple bathrooms, and a high demand for hot water.

But you need to be careful here. A 50kW boiler is only great if you actually need it! When it comes to boiler sizing, bigger isn’t necessarily better.

Whilst it can be tempting to oversize the boiler, ‘just in case’, this is a mistake.

If you choose a larger boiler that has a much higher capacity than you need; you’ll be wasting money not only on the initial purchase; but also on escalating energy bills.

You might also end up needing to repair your boiler due to damage caused by boiler cycling. But don’t worry, The Heating People will be able to tell you precisely how much power you need.

12 year guarantee

The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 8000 Life comes with a guarantee of up to 12 years when installed by a Worcester Bosch accredited installer; such as The Heating People.

This gives you peace of mind that should anything go wrong, the manufacturer will cover the cost of repairs.

Final thoughts…

We hope you’ve found this article helpful. You might like our related blog: Pros and cons of combi boilers.

For tailored advice on the perfect boiler for your home, give us a call today to book your free survey.

Useful Links:

ATAG website – Economiser combi boilers

Which? Review of Vaillant ecoTEC with Green IQ

Vaillant website – ecoTEC Exclusive

Worcester Bosch website – Greenstar 4000

Worcester Bosch one page consumer PDF on the Greenstar 4000

Which? Review of Worcester Bosch Greenstar Life

Worcester Bosch website – Greenstar 8000

Quiet Mark – Vaillant ecoTEC

Advice

Weather compensation

Is there anything us Brits like more than talking about the weather? It’s more than just a stereotype, it’s a national pastime.

And it’s not just a polite ice-breaker either, studies have shown that we spend six months of our lives talking about it.

And thanks to our understanding of climate change globally, talking about the weather has become more than just small-talk.

Regulating the temperature inside your home is now vital in stabilizing the global weather outside your door. If we are to meet our carbon reduction target of net-zero by 2050, then energy efficiency is key.

Since April 2018, all new boiler installations have had to use one of four energy saving features – one of which is weather compensation – which is ideal for a country with our changeable weather.

So today we’re going to talk about how weather compensation devices can keep you comfortable when it’s ‘absolutely Baltic out there’, whilst saving you money, and reducing your carbon footprint.

Weather compensation and Boiler Plus

What does Boiler Plus say about weather compensation?

There are many different types of central heating controls available, all of which can all help to improve your boiler’s performance; increase your comfort; and save you money.

The Boiler Plus regulations require that all new combi boilers must have one of four requirements fitted:

Flue Gas Heat Recovery;
weather compensation;
load compensation;
or smart controls with automation and optimisation functions.

The Heating People favour weather compensation over the other options because it offers the biggest efficiency gain and is a simple technology to integrate.

ATAG boilers come with weather compensation as standard, which is one of the reasons we love them.

What is weather compensation?

The Heating and Hotwater Industry Council (HHIC) defines weather compensation as:

“a control function which maintains internal temperatures by varying the flow temperature from the heat generator relative to the measured outside temperature.”

In other words, weather compensation devices monitor both the temperature inside your home, and the temperature outside, and adjust your boiler’s operation accordingly.

The reason that the outside weather matters when it comes to heating your home; is because the heat we generate to keep our homes warm gets lost through the walls and the roof; and the speed in which this happens will depend on the temperature outside.

On a cold day, the heat will be lost more quickly than on a warm day. To find out more about this, you should read our blog: What is heat loss and why is it important?

A weather compensator tells your boiler to increase or decrease the temperature of your radiators to match the heat loss caused by the weather.

So, instead of your boiler switching on or off depending on when your home gets too cold or too hot, weather compensation will monitor and maintain your chosen temperature without having spikes of over and underheating.

Why does weather compensation keep the heating on at a low level?

At first it might seem counterintuitive to have your heating on at a low level all the time; in order to save energy. But it’s a bit like driving your car at a steady 50mph…

Whilst you might want to put your foot down to get to your destination quicker; you would use far less fuel over the course of your journey; by driving at a slower pace; with fewer variations of speed.

Weather compensators work in a similar way.

The weather compensation control runs the boiler at as low a flow temperature as possible; whilst still providing enough output to the radiators to maintain your chosen temperature.

You’ll have a more comfortable and consistent environment without your heating cycling on and off. And by running at a lower flow temperature; your boiler’s operation in condensing mode is optimised. It will never generate more energy than is needed.

Not only will this save you money on your energy bills, but it will reduce your carbon footprint too.

How does weather compensation improve energy efficiency?

The reason weather compensation is so efficient; is because modern condensing boilers are happiest when the central heating system runs at lower temperatures.

Many boilers never achieve the sweet-spot in condensing mode, as the operating temperature is set too high.

Weather compensation allows your boiler to reduce water temperatures, which increases efficiency without compromising your comfort.

You’ll be more comfortable because your boiler will be able to maintain a steady internal temperature; by adjusting boiler output to account for the weather.

How does weather compensation work?

Weather compensators work in a more straightforward way than you might expect. We’ve broken it down into five steps for you:

1. An outdoor sensor measures the outside temperature

An external sensor (which can be hard-wired or wireless); may need to be installed on a north or west facing wall. This measures the outside temperature. However, many smart controls can now use GPS weather-data to provide the same functionality; without the need for an external sensor.

2. The temperature reading is sent to an electronic controller.

The temperature readings taken by the external sensor (or from GPS weather data) are sent to the weather compensation controller.

3. The temperature controller calculates the heat supply needed to maintain a steady temperature.

The weather compensation controller looks at the outside temperature, and the temperature you want your home to be. And runs the boiler at as low a flow temperature as possible; whilst still providing sufficient output to keep your home at your chosen temperature (normally 19-21 degrees).

Running the boiler at a lower flow temperature helps to optimise its operation in condensing mode. Think of your car doing a consistent 50mph – saving energy and maximising boiler efficiency.

The controller automatically knows what temperature the boiler needs to flow at to get to and maintain your chosen temperature.

4. If required, the controller will adjust the boiler heat supply to the radiators.

Not only does the controller know what temperature the boiler needs to flow at; it then automatically adjusts as the temperature outside or inside changes. The controller alters the boiler flow temperature as soon as the outside temperature changes.

If the temperature outside rises the boiler reduces its output; and if it drops; the boiler increases its output, to match the heat loss.

This avoids the situation sometimes experienced with conventional room-thermostats; where your home gets too cold or too hot; before your boiler receives a message from the thermostat.

5. The system records both indoor and outdoor temperatures so it can fine tune its adjustments.

Weather compensators also record data on the indoor and outdoor temperatures; so they can learn about how quickly your home loses heat in different weather conditions. This means that the controller can fine tune the instructions given to your boiler; on how much heat to generate; and for how long.

What are the benefits of installing weather compensation devices?

There are lots of advantages of installing weather compensators. Here are just a few:

Weather compensation is low maintenance

The beauty of weather compensation is that you don’t have to lift a finger. The temperature controller does all the sensing and calculating of the required temperatures; and gives the instructions to the boiler. All you’ll notice is a comfortable home, whatever the weather.

Weather compensation can be left on all year round, only firing up when it is needed.

Once installed, you really can just forget about it. Your weather compensator will only fire up your boiler when it’s needed.

Weather compensation can save you money

According to The Energy Saving Trust (EST), the cost of heating a home; particularly during the colder winter months; makes up about 60% of household energy bills.

Weather compensation systems can lower your fuel bills. Because they help your heating system to work more efficiently, reducing fuel usage.

And with the current price of gas, that’s got to be a good thing!

With a boiler flow temperature being kept as low as possible, around 55°C or less; the boiler can condense as it is designed to; running more efficiently; and saving you money.

BEIS found that bill savings from weather compensators varies from home to home. But the greatest savings are for households with the highest bills in the first place.

Viessmann conducted research at Salford University. They found that a simple weather compensation sensor typically saves the householder anything from 10-30% off their energy bills. This equates to a good £40-£100 or more per year.

A report by an environmental science consulting group; published similar estimated energy savings. They say the savings are between 10-40% for electronic weather compensators in one-family houses.

You might like our related blog: Does smart heating save money?

Weather compensation reduces your carbon footprint

According to the Climate Change Committee (CCC), energy use in homes accounts for about 14% of UK greenhouse gas emissions.

These emissions need to fall by at least 24% by 2030; from 1990 levels; for us to meet our national target under the 2015 Paris Agreement.

In response to this, and as part of the Government’s ‘Heat in Buildings’ programme; Boiler Plus was created to maximise energy efficiency in homes from April 2018.

Fitting weather compensation technology, is one of the four ways to comply with the energy saving requirements for new combi boilers.

This is because most of the time; your radiator’s temperature only needs to be at a fraction of its maximum output; to keep your room temperature just right. Any degree above what is actually needed, is just a waste of energy.

Weather compensation avoids wasted energy. Because it instructs your boiler to burn a minimal amount of gas to maintain your chosen temperature.

Burning less gas means that less carbon dioxide is being emitted, and thereby reduces your carbon footprint.

Weather compensation provides a more comfortable and consistent environment

Since weather compensation keeps your home at a steady consistent temperature, you’ll benefit from increased levels of comfort.

Weather compensation is a proactive approach to your heating. It alters the radiator output before the house drops in temperature. Whereas a conventional system only notices an increased demand for heat after the room temperature drops.

So, no more feeling cold waiting for a reactive system to catch up. With weather compensation, you won’t even notice that it’s started snowing outside.

Weather compensation avoids spikes in over and underheating.

Weather compensation technology keeps your heating system on all the time at the lowest level possible; instead of it being continually switched off and on by a timer and an indoor room thermostat.

Although keeping your heating on all the time, sounds less energy efficient, this isn’t the case.

We’re back to the example of keeping a constant lower speed on the motorway to save fuel.

Keeping your heating on at a low level; is much more energy efficient than your heating ‘cycling’ off and on all the time. Because your boiler isn’t working hard to heat your house from a completely cold start once or twice a day.

Instead, your heating system will constantly be reacting to gradual temperature changes outside. This allows your home to always be at the right temperature, without over and underheating.

Weather compensation can improve the lifespan of your boiler

Avoiding boiler cycling (through proactive weather compensation) can also prolong the life of your boiler.

This is because your boiler will always be gently ticking over at the lowest temperature possible. And it isn’t having to start-up and shut down so often.

Constant stop-starting is tiring for anyone, and the same is true for your boiler.

Weather compensation not only creates a more consistent home temperature for you; but it also makes life easier for your boiler, meaning break-downs are less likely.

Weather compensation is quick and easy to install

Weather compensators can be quick and easy to install. Once connected to the boiler; your engineer will set the appropriate heating curve from the options supplied by the manufacturer. And the technology will do the rest.

How is weather compensation installed?

If you’re installing weather compensation with an external sensor (rather than one that uses GPS weather data); then a sensor will need to be installed on a north (or possibly a north-west facing wall).

The sensor is wired to the internal controls of your boiler; so that it can communicate instructions on how much heat to generate (and for how long); depending on the outside weather conditions.

The instructions are based on a heat curve which will be set by your engineer.

The heat curve determines what temperature your boiler should heat the water to, at a particular outdoor temperature.

This is shown with a line on a graph. The vertical side of the graph is the radiator temperature and the horizontal side is the outside temperature.

Your engineer will choose the right curvature to maintain the same temperature inside the building at different outside temperatures; using the manufacturer’s instructions; and the heat loss calculations taken from your home.

When it gets colder outside, the controller automatically raises the boiler water temperature, which prevents your rooms from cooling down.

What if my home has a high heat loss rate?

You don’t need to worry about whether or not your home has a high heat loss rate. Weather compensation will still work for you.

Different buildings will have different heat loss rates depending on factors such as their insulation and glazing. To find out more, read our blog: What is heat loss and why is it important?

A brand new house will hold heat for longer than an old house built in the 1900s. This isn’t a problem because manufacturers of weather compensation devices create different curves for different homes.

Your engineer will match the curve to suit your properties heat loss.

Weather compensation – final thoughts?

Weather compensation is a brilliant way to improve the efficiency of all heating systems. And offers extensive benefits to all homes.

But precisely how much you stand to gain from a weather compensation system will depend on your individual circumstances.

The HHIC says that systems using weather compensation generally perform best where continuous heating is being used; or for an extended period “once” a day.

So, if you’re at home a lot throughout the day; you’ll obviously benefit from the consistent temperatures, more than a person who is out at work all day.

Temperature sensitive occupants such as babies and the elderly might also benefit significantly from having a consistent, constant temperature.

In terms of monetary savings; research suggests that those with the biggest bills to begin with, will see the biggest reductions by using weather compensation.

But whatever your situation, weather compensation will:

create a more comfortable and consistent living environment;
prolong the life of your boiler;
save you money on your fuel bills;
and reduce your carbon footprint.

So, we should all be using the weather to our advantage. Now that really is something worth talking about.

Useful Links:

The Independent article about Brits talking about the weather

Boiler Plus factsheet from the government

Boiler Plus consultation reponse

The Heating and Hot Water Industry Council article on weather compensation

Government report on compensating heating controls

Energy Saving Trust article on heating and hot water

Advice

Load compensation

Are you thinking about upgrading your heating system to improve your comfort? And reduce your energy bills? If so, you might have heard the phrase ‘load compensation’ and be wondering what on earth it is!

Load compensators are one of four energy saving devices recognised by the Boiler Plus regulations.

Under Boiler Plus, all new combi boilers are required to have one of four energy saving features fitted. This is all part of the Government’s plan to achieve the UK’s carbon reduction target of net-zero by 2050.

Two of the energy saving devices are load compensation and weather compensation devices. And there’s often a lot of confusion between the two.

So, in this blog, we’ll explain the similarities and differences between weather compensation and load compensation. And explain the factors that will help to decide which one would work best for you.

The good news is, that both of these devices can help you to save money on your fuel bills; as well as reducing your carbon footprint.

What is weather compensation?

The Heating and Hotwater Industry Council (HHIC) defines ‘weather compensation’ as: a control function which maintains internal temperatures; by varying the flow temperature from the heat generator relative to the measured outside temperature.

In other words, weather compensators monitor both the temperature inside your home; and the temperature outside; and adjust your boiler’s operation accordingly.

They maintain the temperature in your home by varying your boiler’s flow temperature; depending on what the measured outdoor temperature is.

Weather matters when it comes to heating your home, because of heat loss. The heat generated by your boiler will get lost through your walls and roof faster on a cold day; compared to a warmer one.

A weather compensator monitors the outdoor temperature. It tells your boiler to increase or decrease its output to precisely match the heat loss caused by the weather.

This means that your home will always be at a comfortable and consistent temperature; without your boiler cycling on and off, saving you energy.

What is load compensation?

Load compensation controls work in a similar way to weather compensation. They too use intelligent communication between temperature sensors and your boiler.

But unlike weather compensators, which use an external sensor; load compensation controls use an internal sensor to achieve your desired indoor temperature.

They do this by measuring the difference between the current temperature in your room; and the desired temperature that you’ve set. The controller then tells your boiler to increase or decrease its output to precisely close the gap.

If your desired temperature is dramatically different from the current room temperature; the load compensator tells the boiler to increase its flow temperature to the maximum. As the room temperature gets closer to your desired temperature, the boiler is told to reduce its flow temperature.

How do weather and load compensators save energy?

Both weather and load compensation controls keep your boiler running at a consistently low flow temperature all the time. Whilst this might sound counterintuitive when you’re trying to save energy, there are two main energy saving advantages to this.

Saving energy by preventing boiler cycling

Firstly, it avoids your boiler from constantly cycling on and off.

Now you might be thinking that switching your boiler off would save energy. Because we’re always being told to switch devices off; and not just leave them on standby when we’re not using them.

But this doesn’t apply to heating your home.

When you think about it, stop-starting anything is hard-work, and the same is true for your boiler. It takes much more energy to heat up an entire house from a very cold start; than to just maintain its temperature.

Think of it as being like boiling a pan of water on a gas hob.

If you put cold water into a pan; you’ll need a high flame; and a lot of gas to get the water to boil. But once it’s boiling, you can turn the flame down low, and keep the water hot.

If you turn the gas off completely and let your water get cold; you would have to turn the flame up high and waste a lot more gas; than if you had just let it tick over at a lower temperature.

The same applies for your boiler. It burns less gas (saving energy) and keeps your home comfortable by not constantly fluctuating between being hot and cold.

Not only that, but the lifespan of your boiler will also be extended. Because just like stop-starting a car, boiler cycling puts stress on boiler components.

Saving energy by optimising condensing mode

Running your boiler at a lower flow temperature also more efficient because your boiler can run in condensing mode.

So, what is condensing mode?

All central heating systems work by sending hot water to your radiators in a loop. When the water goes out from your boiler, it’s called ‘the flow’. When it comes back from your radiators, it’s called ‘the return’.

Modern condensing boilers need the return to be below the dew point of the flue gases to be efficient.

When the temperature of the return is less than 54 degrees C; the boiler runs in ‘condensing mode’.

This sweet-spot in condensing mode is when the boiler starts to recover its lost heat; by turning the returned heat back into water on its second heat exchanger.

But most boilers don’t hit this efficient mode because their operating temperature is set too high. And so the return temperature of the water is too high for the boiler to condense.

The boiler will still work, but it doesn’t condense and won’t reach its maximum efficiency.

Compensation controls allow your boiler to operate in condensing mode; because its output is never higher than it needs to be, saving energy and money on your heating bills.

What are the differences between weather and load compensation?

As we’ve seen, load compensation works in a similar way to weather compensation. But the difference is that it reacts to the internal, rather than the external temperature.

Another difference is that weather compensation is more of a proactive approach than load compensation; because it alters the radiator output before your home drops in temperature.

Load compensation is more reactive than weather compensation; because it jumps into action as soon as the temperature in your home drops or increases.

Although this might sound less desirable than weather compensation, there is an advantage to this.

Load compensation can adjust your heating when you have an internal heat source on; like your oven on full blast; or if you have solar gains because of a conservatory; or lots of windows.

Which is better – Weather or Load Compensation?

There is no ‘right’ answer to this question because it really comes down to your individual circumstances.

But, in general, The Heating People favour weather compensation over load compensation. This is because it offers the biggest efficiency gain (up to 30% off your energy bills, according to Viessmann). And is a simple technology to integrate.

Whether load or weather compensation is the best option for you though, will depend on a range of factors, including:

How you use your home

How often you are at home is a very important factor to consider when choosing between weather and load compensation.

If you work away from home; or are out of the house for long hours; or have irregular working patterns; load compensation might be the better choice for you.

After all, there’s no point heating your home to comfortable levels when nobody is home. And you’ll want to heat it as quickly as possible when someone is.

Where different heating patterns are in use; the more reactive option of load compensation is preferable. This ensures fast heat-up times following extended off periods.

The HHIC explains that weather compensation controls generally perform best where continuous heating is being used; or for an extended period “once” a day.

The size and layout of your home

When weather compensation is used, room temperatures are based on heat loss. Whereas load compensation is based on one area; which may not be reflective of the needs of the rest of the home.

So, if you have a larger home; and you are opting for load compensation; the location of the internal sensor will need to be strategically placed.

But if your home is open-plan, the indoor temperature will generally be much more stable than a house with lots of separate rooms. And an internal sensor will be less susceptible to temperature swings.

A benefit of load compensation is that it will automatically adjust to changes to your home such as installing insulation; and to variations in seasonal solar gains or shading due to foliage.

Your property type

Whether you live in a terraced house; a detached hous;, or a flat; will also affect which option is better for you.

Weather compensation controls might be adversely affected when heating a flat; where there is intermittent influence from flats above; below or either side of your home.

Solar gains

‘Solar gain’ is the increase in temperature in your home which is caused by heat from the sun.

Even though the UK isn’t renowned for its sunny weather; your home will still be getting some short-wave radiation heating directly through openings such as windows; or by indirectly heating the fabric of the building.

In a room or building which is significantly affected by the heat from the sun; the heating system needs to be responsive by heating up and cooling down quickly. This is whether the more reactive, load compensation controls can be particularly useful.

The thermal mass of your home

The thermal mass of your home is another factor to consider in your choice.

If your home has little thermal mass; when you leave a door or window open; your home will cool down quickly.

In this situation, load compensation is a good option. Because it responds to these internal influences, and heats up rapidly. Meaning that you can return a more comfortable room temperature as quickly as possible.

The amount of insulation your home has

If your home has good insulation; it will be more easily affected by small internal heat sources such as ovens, and hairdryers; than a property with poor insulation. This is something to consider with load compensation.

However, a lot of people in the UK are living in brick built houses without particularly great insulation. And these homes are most likely to benefit from weather compensation controls.

Final thoughts…

Weather compensation is generally best where continuous heating is being used, or for an extended period “once” a day. It has the advantage that room temperatures are based on heat loss; rather than one area, which may not reflect the rest of the home’s needs.

Load compensation controls are better suited to homes with more irregular or less frequent occupation; because they are more responsive with rapid heat up, and they respond to internal heat sources.

If you want to find out more about how The Heating People can help you find what type of control is right for you; contact one of our friendly team, who will be happy to help.

You might also like our related blog: Does smart heating save money?

Useful Links:

Boiler Plus Factsheet from the government

Boiler Plus Consultation

Government report: Heat in Buildings

Government report: The ten point plan for a green revolution

The Heating and Hot Water Industry Council document on weather compensation

Installer online article: 5 myths about weather compensation

Heat Geek article on weather or load compensation

Advice

How to reduce heat loss at home

Post author By Lucy
Post date January 20, 2022
No Comments on How to reduce heat loss at home
Sticky post

Today we’re looking at how to reduce heat loss at home.

If you want to be warm and cozy in the winter; whilst keeping your energy bills as low as possible, you need to think about heat loss.

The last thing you want when you’re paying to generate heat; is to have it escaping out of your home as quickly as you’re producing it.

But unfortunately, unless you look at ways to reduce your heat loss, that’s precisely what’s happening!

In this blog we’ll give you some simple tips on how you can reduce your heat loss. This will help you to keep your warm air in, and the cold air out.

This will not only keep you comfortable, but will help you to save money on your energy bills too.

What is heat loss?

Like it or not, all buildings lose heat – and we’ve got science to thank for that!

It helps to understand the science a bit here. Because it makes all the tips on reducing heat loss make more sense…

The reason your home loses heat is because of the second rule of thermodynamics. Don’t worry – this isn’t as complicated as it sounds!

If you know that your cup of tea will go cold if you leave it for an hour; you’re already aware of this rule!

The second rule of thermodynamics says that energy (in this case heat); spontaneously disperses from being concentrated to becoming spread out if it’s not stopped from doing so.

At its simplest level, heat flows in one direction: from hot towards cold. This can happen through conduction, convection, radiation, or a combination of all three.

So, the reason your rooms heat up is the same reason they’ll also go cold. Warm air moves towards cold air.

This is great for us at first because it means that when our boilers pump hot water into our radiators; the heat will move towards the cold air in our room, making it warm – fantastic!

But once the air in our homes is warm, it will naturally want to move towards the cold air outside. All that lovely warm air that you’ve paid money to create, will ultimately escape out of your building. H

Heat loss is a measure of how quickly this happens.

Obviously, we want to slow this process down so that we can keep our warm air for longer. And not have to spend more money keeping the heating on.

Make sure you read our related blog: What is heat loss, and why is it important?

What are the benefits of reducing your heat loss?

Let’s take a look at what you stand to gain from reducing your heat loss:

1. A more comfortable home

Nobody likes to be cold. But the more heat that escapes from your home, the colder it gets inside.

So, reducing your heat loss will help to keep you and your family warm and comfortable, whatever the weather.

2. Reduced energy bills

Nobody likes wasting money, but when you have a lot of heat loss, that’s precisely what you’re doing. All the lovely warm air that you’re paying for, is quite literally running out of the building!

The faster that your heat escapes, the more you’ll have to use your heating to keep warm; and the more it will cost you.

By reducing your heat loss, you’ll be lowering your energy bills; because you won’t need to burn as much fuel to stay warm.

3. Reduced carbon footprint

The quicker your heat escapes from your home; the more you’ll need to use your heating; and the more fuel you’ll burn.

When you burn more fuel, you are producing a lot of excessive carbon emissions which is responsible for global warming.

To reduce your carbon footprint, and slow the progression of climate change; you need to make your home as energy efficient as possible by minimising unnecessary heat loss.

How is heat escaping from my home?

To reduce your heat loss, you need to know how heat is escaping from your home. But this isn’t always easy.

Whilst you might notice a draught of cold air in a particular spot, most heat loss isn’t visible. And the amount you lose in different places might surprise you.

According to the Energy Savings Trust (EST), the following estimates indicate the proportionate heat loss from different parts of a badly insulated house: 25% through the roof; 35% through the outside walls; 25% through the doors and indows; and 15% through the ground floor.

The precise amount of heat loss you experience depends on a number of factors; such as the type and age of property you live in; as well as your altitude and exposure.

Generally, the older your building is; the poorer the insulation is likely to be; and the more susceptible it will be to heat loss.

How is heat loss measured?

We measure how effective parts of your building are at insulating against heat-loss by looking at their U-values.

U-values are sometimes called heat transfer coefficients, or thermal transmittances. They’re measured in Watts per square metre. And they tell you how much energy is lost for every 1°C difference between the two sides of each material used in your building.

In a dilapidated old building with draughty windows and shoddy brickwork; you would see very high U-values, indicating that heat is able to transfer very quickly through the building.

Whereas with a new build with double glazing and plenty of insulation; you would see low U-values, indicating that it takes heat much longer to escape.

How can I reduce heat losses?

Heat is lost from your home through your roof, windows, walls, floors and through gaps around windows and doors.

Air leaks (or draughts) are a double-edged sword. Because as well as heat escaping, cold air can also come in, further increasing your need for more heating.

The good news is that there are lots of simple but effective ways to reduce these heat losses in your home; so that you can be comfortable and minimise your bills and your carbon footprint.

1. Reduce heat loss by checking your heating controls

If your heating system is poorly programmed or has limited to no controls, you’ll be wasting lots of energy.

If you just turn your heating up to full blast in the winter, hoping for the best; this will waste energy because you don’t need the heating to be on full blast 24/7 to be comfortable. And you probably don’t need all your rooms to be at the same temperature at all times.

For example, if you only have one thermostat in your home, which is in a room that is quite cool; it will be telling your boiler to generate more heat, when you’re already warm enough.

If you get too hot, you might then find yourself opening a window – a sort of deliberate heat loss!

Investing in a programmer; room thermostat; and thermostatic radiator valves; could save you £75 per year and 320kg of carbon dioxide, according to the EST.

2. Reduce heat loss by fitting wall insulation

The biggest source of heat loss from your home (about a third of it) is through your walls, so insulating them is a no-brainer if you want to minimise your heat losses.

The insulation you’ll need will depend on the type of walls you have.

Generally, houses built before 1930 have solid walls, and anything built after this date will have cavity walls.

Cavity walls are the easiest to deal with; because insulating material is simply blown into the cavity between your two walls.

The effect of this is that the material slows the heat from travelling through the walls via conduction. And prevents air moving freely inside the cavity, reducing heat loss by convection.

Solid walls are a bit trickier because there’s no space to fill. So the walls need to be insulated either internally or externally, which can be expensive.

According to the EST, an average semi-detached house can expect to save approximately £225 per year on their energy bills; and reduce their carbon dioxide emissions by 930kg by insulating their walls.

3. Reduce heat loss by fitting roof (or loft) insulation

Since one quarter of your heat can be lost through your roof through conduction and convection; it’s important to look at your roof insulation in order to minimise these heat losses.

Laying insulation in your loft significantly reduces the amount of heat that can escape through your roof. And the fibres of the insulation can prevent the trapped air from circulating and causing convection currents.

The result is that your lovely warm air is trapped inside the rooms below the insulation; keeping you warmer for longer.

Another bonus is that the insulation will also help to keep out cold air from entering your home.

If you already have roof insulation, it’s worth looking at how thick it is. Just like putting on a big coat, the thicker your insulation is, the better it will perform.

The EST says that where an average semi-detached house goes from having no insulation, to 270mm of insulation, energy bills will be reduced by up to £150 per year. And carbon dioxide emissions will be reduced by up to 610 kg.

4. Reduce heat loss by adding floor insulation

About 15% of all heat loss in your home is through the ground floor. Because the cement slab, which sits underneath the floors of your home; has a high U-value, meaning that it has poor insulation capability.

So, you need to make sure that there is sufficient insulation between the ground and the floor surface.

In new buildings, insulation is installed during the construction. And in older buildings, insulation layers can be laid on existing floor surfaces.

5. Reduce heat loss by covering bare floorboards

As well as your ground floor being a major source of heat loss; the other floors in your house account for as much as 10% of heat loss if they’re not insulated; according to the National Energy Foundation (NEF).

Carpets and rugs will keep your heat in longer than wooden flooring. And they also have the bonus of keeping your feet nice and warm too.

If you have any cracks or gaps in your flooring, the NEF advises filling these with a silicone-based filler.

6. Reduce heat loss by investing in double glazing

Heat loss through windows can be reduced by using double or triple glazing. These energy efficient windows have air or a vacuum between two or three panes of glass; which are then sealed in a frame.

Just like how a vacuum flask works for keeping your tea warm, creating a vacuum between the panes of glass, reduces heat loss through conduction and convection.

Where there is a vacuum there will be no conduction or convection because air is a poor conductor, and there is little room for the air to move.

If you’re looking to install double glazing in your home, but are confused by all the choices available, look for the British Federation Rating Council (BFRC) rating.

Similarly, to how boilers are rated for their efficiency, windows are too. Window manufacturers can show the energy efficiency of their products using an energy-rating scale from A++ to E.

Whilst there will be a cost to fitting double glazing, the annual savings on your energy bills for an average semi-detached house, is between £75-80, according to the EST.

7. Reduce heat loss with your curtains and shutters

Replacing your windows can be expensive, and if this isn’t an option for you right now you can minimise the frustration of your draughty windows in winter months, by installing heavy curtains or shutters.

Although these won’t completely stop air leaks, they will act as a thermal barrier, and will help to reduce heat loss, as well as reducing the amount of cold air coming in.

8. Reduce heat loss by investing in energy efficient doors

Your doors can also be insulated and draught proofed to prevent heat escaping, and cold air coming in. A properly fitted new external door should include an effective draught-proofing system.

Older doors can be improved by fitting draught-proofing strips around the seals and installing covers on the keyhole and letterbox.

Fitting draught-proofing to the doors and windows will save the typical household around £20 a year.

9. Reduce heat loss by draught proofing your chimney

If your fireplace is more decorative than functional, it’s probably a source of unnecessary heat loss.

The University of Liverpool calculated that we lose around 4% of household heat out of the chimney.

A chimney balloon is a simple solution to this problem because it is fitted and inflated in your chimney to create a barrier and prevent the transfer of heat.

Draught proofing your chimney when you’re not using it could save you around £15 a year on your energy bills, according to the EST.

10. Reduce heat loss by getting an insulating jacket for your hot water cylinder

If you have a heating system with a hot water cylinder, check whether it has an insulating jacket. The EST says that just fitting your hot water cylinder with an insulating jacket will save you £20 a year in heating costs and 150kg of carbon dioxide emissions.

11. Reduce heat loss by investing in a new, energy efficient boiler

How old and inefficient is your boiler? Although not strictly speaking relating to heat loss, the energy efficiency rating of your boiler will still affect your energy bills through lost energy.

Generally older boilers are less efficient than modern ones and cost more to run.

An A-rated boiler has an energy efficiency of 90% or more. The Boiler Plus regulations mean that new combi boilers are at least 92% efficient.

To put this in perspective, an older G-rated boiler has an efficiency of 70% or less which means for every £1 you spend on your heating bill you are wasting 30p on lost energy.

As well as older boilers tending to be less efficient to start with, their efficiency can also deteriorate further with age.

The EST estimates that boilers are responsible for 55% of your household energy bills, so upgrading from a G rated to an A rated boiler could save you up to £200 per year.

Final thoughts…

We hope that these tips will help you to minimise your heat losses and stay warm this winter!

If you want to talk to us about looking at the efficiency of your heating system, contact one of our team at The Heating People, who will be happy to help you.

Useful Links:

The Energy Saving Trust tips on draught proofing.

The Greenage article on draught proofing

Advice

A-Z of Heating Jargon

If you’re confused by heating terms such as ‘ErP rating’, ‘sealed system’ or ‘Power flush’ – don’t worry, you’re not alone! When it comes to central heating, there’s a lot of jargon out there.

So, we’ve put together this A-Z glossary of key terms that will help you to understand the lingo.

Heating jargon – A is for…

Accredited installers

You’ll often see engineers describing themselves as ‘Accredited Installers’ of a particular brand of boiler. This means that the engineer has completed additional training so that they can advise on and install a particular manufacturer’s boilers to the highest possible standard. We are:

Accredited Heat Geek installers
Worcester Bosch Accredited Installers
Vaillant Advance Installers
Viessmann Trained Installers
ATAG Selected Partners

Air source heat pump

Air source heat pumps (ASHPs) absorb heat from the outside air to heat your home and hot water. Therefore, they are a cheaper and more environmentally friendly way of heating your home.

Ambient temperature

This is is often used to refer to the ordinary or baseline temperature of a room. A lot of people think that ideal room temperature is 21 °C. But the best room temperature for your home is a steady 18 °C or 19 °C. By turning your thermostat down even by just a single degree, you’ll see some significant savings on your energy bills.

Annual service

An annual service is where a Gas Safe engineer will conduct various tests on your boiler to make sure that it’s functioning safely and effectively. A bit like an MOT for a car, a boiler service is vital maintenance for your central heating system. So, don’t forget to book yours!

ATAG

ATAG manufactures boilers that offer outstanding engineering, reliability, and energy efficiency. As ATAG Selected Partners, we can offer extended guarantees of up to 14 years on ATAG boilers. Consequently, you’ll have peace of mind that your ATAG boiler will stand the test of time!

B is for…

Backflow

This is where a loss of system pressure is causing water to flow in the wrong direction.

Balancing your heating system

Balancing your heating system means optimising the flow of water in your heating system, so that all of your radiators heat up evenly and give off the right amount of heat.

In unbalanced systems, some radiators (probably the ones closest to your boiler) take the bulk of the hot water flow, leaving other radiators with less. This can reduce your boiler’s efficiency and leave you with some rooms that feel warmer than others.

The idea is to get the water returning to your boiler to be 50 degrees or lower, so that your boiler can operate in its efficient condensing mode.

Bar (pressure)

A bar is a metric measurement unit of pressure, relating to water, gas, or air. When the heating is on your boiler pressure should be between 1.5 and 2 bar. You can check this on your boiler’s pressure gauge.

Baxi

This manufacturer of boilers has some of the best known and trusted heating and hot water brands for residential and commercial heating customers in the UK and Ireland.

Benchmark

Benchmark is a universal ‘checklist’ that engineers follow when installing, commissioning, and servicing boilers. The HHIC created it to run alongside the Building Regulations in England and Wales.

Biomass boiler

Most boilers in the UK burn gas to produce heat. But a biomass boiler burns natural materials such as wood pellets, chips or logs to provide heating and hot water.

Bleeding a radiator

Bleeding a radiator means letting trapped air out of your heating system using a radiator bleed key. As a result, your boiler can heat your home more effectively and helps to reduce your energy bills.

Bleed key

Bleed keys release trapped air from your radiators (‘bleeding’ radiators). They loosen and tighten the square headed bleed screw located in the middle of the bleed plug at either the top left or top right of a radiator.

Bleed valve

Bleed valves are usually found at the top of your radiator or heated towel rail. They allow you to expel trapped air from your heating system using the radiator bleed key.

Boiler

Boilers use fuel to transfer heat to water to warm your home, and give you hot water for your baths and showers. There are three main types of boiler system on the market: combi boilers, system boilers and heat-only boilers.

Boiler Plus

Introduced in April 2018, these standards improve the way people use energy in their homes, giving them a greater choice on how to maximise energy efficiency. Boiler Plus requires that all boilers must be at least 92% efficient and all gas and oil boilers must have appropriate time and temperature controls fitted. Bolier Plus also requires that combi boilers have one of four additional energy saving devices fitted: FGHRS; weather compensation; load compensation; or smart controls with automation and optimisation functions.

Building Regulations

The Building Regulations protect the health and safety of people in and around buildings. In addition, they improve the conservation of fuel and power, protect and enhance the environment and promote sustainable development.

C is for…

Carbon dioxide

Carbon dioxide (CO2) is a gas which is naturally present in the air (about 0.03 per cent). Plants absorb it during photosynthesis. Unfortunately, humans produce carbon dioxide through activities that involve burning fossil fuels.

Carbon dioxide is a major component of greenhouse gas, responsible for global warming and climate change. Globally, heat accounts for nearly half of all energy consumption and 40% of energy-related carbon dioxide emissions.

Carbon Monoxide

Carbon monoxide is a poisonous gas, which has no smell or taste. Exposure to this gas will make you very unwell and can cause death. Therefore, it’s vital to have your boiler serviced every year by a Gas Safe engineer to keep it safe.

Casing

Your boiler’s casing is the surround that protects the inner workings of the boiler. Only Gas Safe engineers can remove these.

Celsius

Celsius is a unit of temperature on the Celsius scale, a temperature scale originally known as the centigrade scale.

Central heating

Your boiler burns fuel to heat water, which it pumps through pipes to your radiators and hot taps.

Cistern

A cistern is another name for the header tank or feed and expansion tank. Its role is to supply water to the central heating system and maintain the level of water, which expands when heated.

Cold water storage tank

Used in open vented central heating systems to provide the system with mains cold water. They are usually located in a loft to allow gravity to feed the system.

Combination (combi) boiler

Combination boilers, or ‘combi’ boilers, provide heating and hot water from one compact unit, without the need for any external tanks or cylinders. Combi boilers are the most popular type of boiler sold in the UK.

Combustion

Your boiler relies on the process of combustion to provide heat for your home and hot water for your baths and showers. Combustion is a chemical process in which the fuel reacts rapidly with oxygen and gives off heat.

Commissioning

It’s a legal requirement (under the Building Regulations) to have your boiler commissioned by a Gas Safe engineer. Your engineer will follow the boiler commissioning checklist provided by the HHIC. Thid avoids common boiler issues by ensuring your new boiler has been set up correctly.

Condemned

Condemned boilers are not safe to use. There are two categories of condemned boiler. An ‘immediately dangerous’ boiler is one which if operated or left connected to the gas supply is an immediate danger to life or property. ‘At Risk’ boilers have at least one fault which could endanger life or the property.

Condensate pipe

When your boiler burns fuel to heat water for your heating system, condensation also forms. The boiler expels this as a gas. Some condensate collects inside the boiler and is drained away through the condensate pipe.

Condensation

Condensation occurs when water reaches its dew point. Changes in temperature and pressure turn air from a vapour into a liquid. This will happen when your boiler burns a fuel (such as gas) to heat water.

Condensing boiler

A condensing boiler uses condensing technology to extract all usable heat from the combustion process. When a boiler burns gas to produce heat, it releases hot gasses through the flue into the atmosphere. Non-condensing boilers waste these gases. But condensing boilers capture the hot flue gasses and recycle them to help heat water in the system. Condensing boilers are therefore much more energy efficient than non-condensing boilers.

Conduit

A conduit is a tube that houses electrical wiring.

Controls

Controls allow you to easily regulate the temperature of your home without wasting fuel or heat. There are a huge variety of heating controls available, including: time switches; programmers; room thermostats; programmable room thermostats; smart thermostats; and thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs).

Convection

Convection transfers heat is by the movement of a heated fluid such as air or water. It’s the process that your central heating system uses to transfer the heat from water to the rooms in your home.

Corrosion

Corrosion is the gradual deterioration and degradation of materials (usually a metal) by chemical and or electrochemical reaction with their environment. Unfortunately, if you don’t look after your central heating system, the insides of your pipes and radiators can degrade, requiring a Power flush or replacement.

Corrosion inhibitor

A corrosion inihibitor can help to prolong the life of your central heating system by protecting your heating system against corrosion. You can protect the ineer workings of your heating system by using a chemical inhibitor during a power flush.

Cycling (boiler)

Boiler cycling is when a boiler turns on and off to maintain the desired temperature. Constant firing and shutting down wastes a lot of fuel and energy and takes its toll on your boiler.

Cylinder

Hot water cylinders (used by heat-only and system boilers) hold your hot water until its required.

D is for…

Domestic hot water (DHW)

This is potable water that is safe for washing or bathing in your home.

Double glazing

Double glazed windows have two layers (panes) of glass separated by an air space. This air traps heat, increasing the windows efficiency and ability to prevent heat loss.

Drain down

This is the process in which a Gas Safe engineer will remove all the water from your central heating system. This may be necessary when installing a new radiator or to power flush the system.

Duct

A round or sometimes rectangular tube that distributes the exhaust fumes from your boiler.

E is for…

Efficiency

Efficiency is the ratio of the useful work performed by your boiler to the total energy expended in that process. For example, for a modern boiler with 92% efficiency, 92% of the energy heats the home, and 8% is ‘lost’/used to run itself.

Efficiency class

The ErP Directive requires that space and water heaters to be labelled with an efficiency class. Boilers, like other domestic appliances, have efficiency ratings of A-G, A being the most efficient to G which is the least efficient. For a very old boiler with 60% efficiency, only 60% of the energy used by the boiler goes to heating the home, whilst a huge 40% is wasted.

Emission

Processes such as combustion produce substances or pollutants called emissions.

Energy Savings Trust

An independent non-profit organisation set up in 1992 with the express goal of reducing energy use in the UK.

ErP

ErP stands for Energy-related Products. It relates to an EU Directive which drives improvements in the efficiency and performance of heating and hot water products across Europe.

ErP Directive

A European Directive on ErP came into force in 2015 and replaced SEDBUK (Seasonable Efficiency for a Domestic Boiler UK). The ErP Directive covers boilers, combination boilers, water heaters and other heating appliances up to 400kW.

ErP rating

The ErP Directive (see above) rates the efficiency of all energy-consuming goods between A++ and G and you can usually find this on the casing of your boiler. All new boilers fitted into existing properties must have an ‘ErP’ (Energy rated performance) of 92%.

Expansion vessel

Expansion vessels keep the pressure in a combi boiler stable while water heats and cools. Water expands by up yto 4% of its volume at room temperature when its heated. So, the expansion vessel accommodates this.

F is for…

Feed and expansion tank

Open vented heating systems need feed and expansion tanks. Often located in the loft, they to up the central heating system with cold water as well as providing somewhere for the hot water to go if your system overheats.

Filling loop

The filling loop is a small, braided hose with connections on either end. It provides a temporary connection to the mains so that you’re able add additional water to your heating system.

Flow rate

Flow rate is the amount of fluid or gas that flows through a pipe or a tube over a given time. A boiler’s flow rate shows how much hot water it can send to your taps in one minute. But this will depend on the flow rate of the mains water supply to your home. If the flow rate of your mains is lower than the flow rate of the boiler, then it will never reach that level.

Flue

A flue is a duct, pipe, or chimney which takes exhaust gases from your boiler to the outdoors. Flues are essential to keep you safe because they take the products of combustion (which contain carbon monoxide and other noxious gases) out of your home, and release them into the atmosphere.

Flue gas

Burning fuel produces flue gases. The flue releases flue gases safely outside your home.

Flue Gas Heat Recovery Systems

Flue gas heat recovery systems make boilers more efficient by capturing and reusing heat energy that would otherwise have escaped out of your flue or chimney.

Fuel

Any material (such as gas, oil or coal) that will react with other substances so that it releases energy as heat energy.

G is for…

Gas Safe Register

The Gas Safe register lists businesses that can safely and legally work on gas. It’s the only official gas registration body of the United Kingdom, the Isle of Man and Guernsey.The Gas Safe Register issues licenses for engineers to undertake gas work on behalf of a registered business if they have evidenced competence through a valid and current qualification. We are Gas Safe registered.

Gas Safety (Installation and use) (Amendment) Regulations 2018

These regulations came into force on 6 April 2018 and cover the safe installation, maintenance and use of gas appliances in private dwellings and business premises. The regulations improve safety and help to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning, fires, and explosions.

Green Power

Green power is a subset of renewable energy and covers energy produced from solar, wind, geothermal, biomass, and low-impact small hydroelectric sources.

Grid

A term used to refer to the system that distributes and transmits electricity.

H is for…

Header tank

Header tank is another name for a feed and expansion tank. Open vented systems usually have one in the loft. Its job is to supply water to the central heating system, and to maintain the level of water, which expands when heated.

Heat curve

A heat curve is a graph showing the relationship between the central heating system supply temperature and the outside air temperature. Weather compensation controls use them to ensure that the flow temperature of your boiler is matched to the actual heat demand.

Heat Exchanger

Your boiler’s heat exchanger transfers heat from your fuel (usually gas) to the water. The boiler pumps the hot water around your home to heat your radiators and supply your hot taps.

Heat Geek

Created to give expert advice on all aspects of the heating industry to both end users and industry professionals. The Heating People are proud to be Heat Geek Elite installers and Heat Geek Assured installers of heat pumps. This means we have undergone the best heating design training the industry has to offer!

Heat loss

Heat loss is a measure of the amount of heat escaping through your building’s fabric from the inside to the outside. All buildings lose heat, but the colder the outside temperature; the warmer the inside; and the worse the insulation of your building; the greater the heat loss will be. Reducing heat loss makes your heating system more efficient, reducing energy bills and your carbon footprint.

Heat-only boiler

Also known as ‘conventional’ or ‘regular’ boilers, heat-only boilers provide heating directly to your central heating, and work with a cylinder to provide your hot water. They can be ‘open-vented’, meaning that there’s a feed and expansion tank in the loft, but they can also work on a ‘sealed’ system too.

Heat pumps

Heat pumps are electrical devices that transfer heat from a source (such as the heat of the soil in the garden) to another location (like the hot water system of a house). Although they use a small amount of electricity, they are extremely efficient, with an efficiency rate of between 200-600%.

Heat recovery

This recycles heat that would usually be lost into the atmosphere. It increases the efficiency of your heating system by reducing the heating and cooling demands. Modern condensing boilers will have some form of heat recovery built in, but additional Flue Gas Recovery Systems can further increase efficiency by recycling heat from waste flue gases.

Heat transfer

Heat energy can be transferred by conduction, convection or radiation. Your central heating system generates heat by transforming the chemical energy in fuel (usually gas) into thermal energy. It transfers heat to water, which is pumped around your home.

Heating and Hotwater Industry Council (HHIC)

The HHIC is committed to effectively driving, supporting and promoting the sustained growth of the UK domestic heating and hot water industry.

I is for…

Ideal

Ideal provides reliable, competitively priced boilers to all of its installers and consumers.

Immersion heater

An immersion heater is an electric water heater that sits inside a hot-water cylinder. They use a metal loop or coil to heat the surrounding water. They can be the main source of hot water or provide a back-up for a traditional gas boiler.

Installer

To work on gas, a heating installer must be Gas Safe registered.

Insulation

This is any material that reduces the transmission of heat (or sound) from one area to another. Insulation is important to reduce heat loss and improve the efficiency of your central heating system.

Isolation valve

An isolation valve is part of a heating system that restricts or completely stops the flow of water through the system. Isolation valves are useful for fixing small issues like a dripping tap, because there is no need to turn off the mains water if one of these valves is installed.

J is for…

Joule

A joule is a unit of energy. One joule is equal to the work done by a force of one newton acting through one metre. It is also the energy dissipated as heat when an electric current of one ampere passes through a resistance of one ohm for one second.

K is for…

Kilowatt (KW)

Kilowatts measure the ‘size’, or the power output of a boiler. A kilowatt is equal to 1,000 watts and this unit helps us to measure the power your boiler can provide to your heating system. For example, a 25kW boiler uses 25,000 watts (25 kW) of power per hour to heat the water for your central heating. Generally, the more heat and hot water you require for your home, the higher the kW boiler you will need. But the type of boiler you have will affect this.

Kilowatt-hour (or kWh)

A Kilowatt-hour is the unit of energy utility companies use to measure how much gas and electricity you’re using. It refers to the use of power over a period – for example a 1 kW hair dryer used for an hour will use 1 kWh.

L is for…

Load compensation

Load compensation is an energy saving control that uses an internal temperature sensor to measure the difference between your current room temperature, and your desired room temperature, to control your boiler’s output to precisely close the gap.

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Part L

Approved Document L was introduced in October 2010 as part of the Building Regulations and was recently amended by Boiler Plus. Approved document L provides guidance on the conservation of fuel and power. Part L1A applies to newbuild homes and Part L1B which sets the standards for work carried out in existing homes, to achieve carbon reduction targets.

M is for…

Modulation

Boiler modulation refers to the ability of a boiler to automatically reduce its output to suit the demand for heat, thereby lowering the amount of gas it’s using.

Modulation ratio

The modulation ‘ratio’ is how manufacturers express a boiler’s ability to modulate. The numbers refer to the boiler’s minimum output in relation to its maximum output. The wider the modulation range, the better the ratio.

N is for…

National grid

The National Grid is the system operator of Great Britain’s electricity and gas supply. This includes England, Scotland and Wales. It is the company that manages the network and distribution of electricity and gas that powers all our homes and businesses.

Natural gas

Gas is one of four fossil fuels (along with coal, sulphur and petroleum) that forms deep beneath the earth’s surface. It predominantly contains five gases – methane, ethane, butane, propane and nitrogen. The largest component of natural gas is methane. It is a non-renewable hydrocarbon used as a source of energy for heating, cooking, and electricity generation.

Net-zero

The Institute for Government says that net zero means “achieving a balance between the amount of greenhouse gas emissions produced and the amount removed from the atmosphere.” In other words, any greenhouse gas emissions that can’t be avoided must be matched by removing the equivalent from the atmosphere. For more on how the government intends to achieve this, check out our related blog here.

Nitrogen Dioxide

Nitrogen Dioxide (NO₂) is a colorless, odorless gas that is commonly emitted when we burn fuels for our heating appliances (such as boilers and ovens).

Non-return valve

A non-return valve allows a liquid or gas to flow through it, but only in one direction. The purpose of this is to ensure that the liquid or gas flows through a pipe in the right direction, where it might otherwise have unwanted reversed flow.

O is for…

OFTEC

OFTEC stands for the Oil Firing Technical Association. It recognises installers who are approved to install oil, solid fuel and renewable heating equipment and to main oil and solid fuel systems.

Open flue

An open flue has a pipe which carries combustion gases from the appliance, whilst fresh air enters the appliance via the casing. For safe operation, additional air vents are required in the room where the appliance is installed to re-supply fresh air.

Open-vented central heating system

Heat-only boilers are sealed or open vented. Open vented heating systems are open to atmospheric pressure and have a feed and expansion tank at the highest point in the system. The water tank in the loft maintains the right water level whilst a pump circulates the hot water to your home’s radiators.

P is for…

PCB

PCB stands for printed circuit board. The PCB monitors your boiler’s pressure, temperatures and currents and controls the boiler electronically. Sometimes, it will develop a fault or stop working properly, or sometimes it may shut down the boiler because another component is not working properly.

Pilot light

The pilot light ignites the gas, which heats the water in your boiler and fires up your central heating.

Power flushing

Power flushing is a way of cleaning and maintaining your central heating system. Your engineer will use a power flushing machine to send water at high velocity through your heating system. This dislodges and removes debris, limescale, and sludge which can build-up over time.

Pressure (boiler)

This refers to the pressure of hot water running in your sealed central heating system, while water pressure is the pressure of the water coming through your taps.

Pressure drop

Most modern (and some older) heating systems are sealed, and the system is pressurised to ‘push’ the water around your system. To work efficiently, it must maintain a stable pressure, which is determined by the volume of water in your heating system. If there is a pressure drop, your system can cut out, preventing your central heating from working. Re-pressurising your boiler will help to keep your boiler working well.

Pressure relief valve

Pressure relief valves are primarily used within sealed heating systems as a safety mechanism to release high pressure within the system. When the pressure gets too high, pressure relief valves open to reduce the pressure, and prevent damage to the system.

Programmable thermostat

Programmable thermostats are thermostats which adjust the temperature according to a series of programmed settings that take effect at different times of the day. They allow you to pre-set your heating schedule, so that your heating comes on and switches off depending on when it’s required.

PTFE Tape

Tape made from a material called polytetrafluorethylene.

Q is for…

Quotation

A quotation is a formal statement setting out the estimated cost for a particular job or service. We will provide you with a fixed price quotation after completing a survey of your home and requirements.

R is for…

Radiator

Radiators are a vital part of your central heating system. Hot water from your boiler runs through the piping in your home, warming up each radiator in your system. When water in the radiator is hot, the surrounding air heats up via convection and the hot air moves around the room as the air circulates.

Radiator key

(See also Bleed Key) Radiator keys are hand tools for undoing, tightening, and adjusting the fittings of a central heating radiator.

Renewables

A natural resource or source of energy that is not depleted by use, such as water, wind, or solar power.

Renewable energy

Renewable energy comes from natural sources or processes that are constantly replenished and do not diminish over time. Such fuel sources include the sun, wind, moving water, organic plant, and waste material (biomass), and the earth’s heat (geothermal).

Room thermostat

Individual room thermostats measure the temperature of the air in the room, if it is cold, it will tell the central heating to turn on, when it gets too warm it tells the central heating to turn off.

S is for…

Sealed heating system

A system that is closed to the atmosphere and does not have a feed and expansion tank. Instead of using a feed and expansion tank, a sealed system comprises an expansion vessel into which system water can expand as the water heats. As the system cools, this pressurised vessel pushes water back into the system.

S Plan

An S Plan Heating System has two separate motorised valves which control the temperature of the central heating and the hot water individually.

Standing loss

A measurement of the heat that escapes from a hot water cylinder through the high radiating areas of the casing, such as the immersion heater. This heat loss is commonly referred to as standing loss and is measured in kilowatt hours (kWh) lost over 24 hours.

Steam

Steam is water in vapour form. It is the operating fluid in many heating systems.

Stopcock

A stopcock is a type of ball valve that controls the flow of a liquid or gas, like a water main for example.

Sludge

Over time, the water in your pipes, boiler, and radiators deposits unwanted by-products like rust. This rust (plus other dirt and debris) becomes an unpleasant, muddy substance, known as ‘sludge’. This sludge plays havoc with the efficiency of your heating system, causing corrosion and blockages. Sometimes it can be removed with a power flush.

Solar gains

This refers to the short wave radiation from the sun that heats a building, either directly through an opening such as a window, or indirectly through the fabric of the building.

Solar thermal

A solar thermal system uses the energy from the sun to heat up water to use in the home. Solar collectors absorb heat from the sun. The heated water or heat-transfer fluid then runs from the collectors to your hot water cylinder.

System boilers

System boilers feature aspects of both a heat-only boiler and a combi. Like a heat-only boiler, a system boiler needs a hot-water cylinder to heat and store hot water for your taps. But it doesn’t need a tank in the attic because, like a combi, it takes its water supply directly from the mains. The heat exchanger heats the cold water by transferring energy from the gas jets to the water. The boiler pumps the water into a large hot water cylinder.

T is for…

Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve

A Temperature and pressure relief valve is a safety device to relieve pressure from a hot water cylinder when they reach extremes.

Thermostat

A thermostat is a device that automatically regulates temperature, or that activates a device when the temperature reaches a certain point.

Thermostat (boiler)

This is a thermostat which is inside the boiler casing that limits the temperature of water passing through the boiler by switching it off. This temperature can be set by the user or may be fixed by the manufacturer.

TRV

TRV stands for thermostatic radiator valve. TRVs fit on the side of your radiator and allow you to control the heat output of a radiator and the temperature of a room. They can help you to save energy, and therefore money on your energy bills.

Timer

Timers or boiler time switches are the simplest type of heating control because they simply turn your boiler on and off at preset times. Time switches are generally not used on modern systems where more appropriate programmable thermostats or compensating control is used.

U is for…

Unvented cylinder

Unvented cylinders store and heat water that is taken directly from the incoming mains supply. This is different to a vented cylinder, which is gravity fed by a tank in the loft. You can get hot water out of an unvented cylinder at a much better pressure than with a vented cylinder, because it is pressurised.

V is for…

Vaillant

Vaillant are one of the leading manufacturers of boilers, heat pumps and heating systems in the UK. The Heating People are proud to be Vaillant Advance Installers.

Vent

A vent is used to disperse or conduct fresh air in, or waste air and gases out of an interior space or appliance.

Vented cylinder

Vented cylinders store and heat water that is fed directly from a tank in the loft. They are sometimes referred to as gravity fed hot water systems. This is because the tank in the loft is higher than the vented cylinder, and the natural pull of gravity carries the water down from the tank to the cylinder.

Ventilation

The process of supplying a house or room continuously with fresh air.

Viessmann

The Viessmann Group is a German company specialising in heating, cooling, and refrigeration systems. The Heating People are proud to be Viessmann trained installers.

W is for…

Warranty

Reputable boiler manufacturers will give you a warranty on a new boiler. This is a promise to repair or replace the boiler free of cost if necessary, within a specified period of time. The warranty covers the cost of repairs and maintenance and sometimes includes replacement parts and labour costs. The Heating People can offer warranties of up to 14 years on ATAG boilers.

Water main

A water main is the principal or ‘main’ pipe that delivers cold water into your home.

Water pressure

Water pressure determines the flow of water from the tap. Low pressure can reduce water flow to a trickle, and it will take a long time to fill a kettle or a cistern. Some modern heating appliances and showers will not work below certain pressure levels.

Weather compensation

Weather compensation devices are heating controls. They use an outdoor sensor to monitor the outdoor temperature and adjust your boiler’s operation accordingly. By matching your home’s heat loss (which is caused by the weather) you can save on your energy bills, as well as reducing your carbon footprint.

Worcester Bosch

Worcester Bosch are one of the market leading brands in the heating and hot water systems industry. The Heating People are proud to be Accredited Installers of Worcester Bosch systems.

X is for…

Xylophone?!

We were stumped with this one!

Y is for…

Y-Plan

A Y-Plan heating system is a system that uses one motorised valve, which has 3 ports for water to flow through. ‘Y Plan’ refers to the wiring of motorised valves, to operate the heating and hot water independently.

Z is for…

Zoned heating system

A zoned heating system breaks your home into different areas or “zones”, each controlled separately by a thermostat. Zoning your home allows for several benefits including elimination of hot and cold spots and individual control of different rooms’ temperatures.

Zero carbon

Zero carbon means that no carbon emissions are being produced from a product/service.

Useful Links:

https://www.heatgeek.com/find-a-heat-geek/

Advice

How to fix a frozen condensate pipe

Post author By Lucy
Post date December 20, 2021
No Comments on How to fix a frozen condensate pipe

How to fix a frozen condensate pipe…

Feeling chilly? If your boiler has stopped working when it’s freezing outside, there’s a good chance that your boiler’s condensate pipe has frozen.

This pipe is responsible for taking waste from your boiler out into a drain. If it gets blocked with ice, your boiler will automatically shut down as a safety measure until it’s resolved.

Luckily, this isn’t a big problem, and it might be something you wish to try resolving for yourself. Read our step-by-step guide to get up and running again.

What are condensing boilers?

There’s a common misconception that a ‘condensing boiler’ is a type of boiler, when in fact, it isn’t.

The terms ‘condensing boilers’ and ‘non-condensing boilers’ are confusing, because they actually describe the technology within the boiler itself, rather than what sort of boiler it is.

Due to regulations introduced in 2005 and 2018, all new boilers in the UK must be condensing. This is regardless of whether your boiler is a heat-only, a combination, or a system boiler.

The regulations changed because condensing boilers are more energy efficient than their non-condensing counterparts, and can typically extract 90-92% of heat from fuel, compared to 50-80% that a non-condensing boiler can.

How do condensing boilers work?

Condensing boilers typically use gas as a fuel to condense water vapour to create heat.

This is different from old non-condensing boilers which worked by creating hot gases which passed through a heat condenser to then heat water. These old non-condensing boilers wasted between 30-50% of heat due to combustion gasses escaping into the flue.

Condensing boilers are much more efficient because they extract the latent or additional heat from the combustion gasses and ‘recycle’ them back into the heating system to heat the water inside the boiler.

What is condensate?

When your boiler is fired up to heat your home or produce hot water, it is burning a fuel (typically gas) and this process produces carbon dioxide and water vapour.

Once enough heat is produced from this vapour, the temperature of the flue gas is reduced from around 130℃ to 50℃. This rapid fall in temperature produces condensate water waste, as much as 2-3 litres per hour.

This condensate is slightly acidic (3-5 pH) and needs to be drained away from your heating system. The boiler condensate pipe allows this water to be drained and disposed of with your household waste water.

What is the condensate pipe?

Your boiler’s condensate pipe is a plastic pipe which is responsible for taking the wastewater from the condensing process away from the heating system and disposing of it into a sewer.

Often this pipe exits behind the boiler, through your external wall, and into a drain.

Condensate pipes that are fitted externally or that run through wall cavities or unheated outbuildings are vulnerable to becoming frozen in extremely low temperatures.

The problem with condensate pipes

During cold snaps, condensate pipes can freeze, causing your boiler to stop working completely.

For this reason, it is desirable for the condensate pipe to discharge less than 3 m away from the boiler; be positioned at a gradient; and be insulated with lagging.

Nonetheless, even with our best efforts, a condensate pipe will still freeze. This is one of the most common problems modern heating systems face in the winter months.

The water inside the pipe freezes and the boiler’s inbuilt sensors will therefore prevent the boiler from lighting. This means that you’ll have no heating or hot water, right when you need it most!

Luckily, this is a very straightforward issue to solve, because once the ice melts, and the water can flow again, your boiler’s sensor will recognise that it can ignite again.

How do you know when your condensate pipe is frozen?

You’ll know that your condensate pipe has frozen if you hear a gurgling sound coming from your boiler or if you have a digital display it may show error code: “EA”.

A quick guide to thawing your condensate pipe

If your condensate pipe has frozen, don’t panic – just follow these simple steps to get back up and running:

1. Find your condensate pipe.

Your condensate pipe should be a white plastic pipe that comes out of the wall directly behind your boiler. Check that it runs from the boiler to an exterior drain.

2. Get the kettle on

Boil your kettle and let the water cool. It’s important that you don’t try to thaw the pipe with boiling water. Instead, let the water cool for approximately 15 minutes. Pour the warm water down the length of the pipe until the ice has thawed.

3. Reset your boiler

Now you need to rest your boiler. Wait a few minutes and check that it is working properly. If you have fully thawed your frozen condensate pipe, everything should be working as normal.

Preventing your condensate pipe from freezing again

Prevention is better than cure, so now that you’ve solved the problem, you’ll want to make sure that it doesn’t happen again.

The Heating People have some tips to help prevent your condensate pipe from freezing:

❖ Install a larger condensate pipe

A larger pipe is less likely to freeze. Usually, manufacturers will recommend pipes in the range of 32-40mm, but it is possible to have The Heating People install a thicker pipe if you are frequently experiencing very cold temperatures, or a recurring problem.

❖ Reduce external piping and check gravity is working in your favour

The less pipe that is external to your home, the less likely it will freeze. So, you may wish to speak to an engineer to see whether it;s possible for you to move your condensate pipe to minimise exposure to the elements. Ensuring that the waste water falls from your pipe as quickly as possible will help to keep the pipe clear so that it’s unlikely to become blocked.

❖ Get a siphon trap

If you’re going to be replacing your boiler soon, choose one that has a siphon trap. This will release the waste-water in one go (rather than in drawn out drips), thereby lowering the risk of freezing.

❖ Insulate the pipe

Insulation isn’t just for your house. Insulating your condensate pipe will help to keep it warmer, reducing the chances of it freezing again.

❖ Get a trace

A trace is an electrical element that can be bonded to the area below your condensate pipe. It is able to warm the pipe when the temperature drops below 5°C. If you install it, you must also add insulation to the pipe.

Final thoughts

We hope you’ve found this guide helpful. For more heating advice, check out our other blogs!

Advice

10 Christmas heating tips

Post author By Lucy
Post date December 15, 2021
No Comments on 10 Christmas heating tips

10 Christmas heating tips…

It’s the most wonderful time of the year… It’s time to deck the halls, indulge in too many mince pies and start dreaming of a white Christmas.

But whilst we’re happy for it to be cold outside, Christmas wouldn’t be Christmas without a cosy home to return to.

Is there anything better than snuggling up in your new slippers to watch old films with loved ones under your Christmas tree?!

But what if your nights aren’t so cosy?

Christmas is an expensive time of year anyway – the Bank of England says we spend an additional £750 more per house in December.

But given that we’re only just emerging from a pandemic; and energy prices are sky-rocketing; you might not be feeling so merry and bright. You might be worrying about the additional bill you might be left with in January.

But don’t get your tinsel in a tangle, we’re here to offer some tips that can help you to keep your home warm and snug this Christmas, without breaking the bank.

We’ve included lots of tips here, and chances are, your to-do list is as long as the big man’s himself – but you don’t have to do all of these. Hopefully there are one or two things you can implement.

Christmas heating tip 1: Check that you’ve had your boiler serviced

Nobody wants their heating and hot water to go off over Christmas, so it’s a good idea to check that you’re up to date with your annual service before the festivities get under way.

It’s vital to have your boiler serviced annually by a Gas Safe engineer to keep you and your family safe from all the dangers associated with gas.

But not only that – regular boiler maintenance will help you to avoid breakdowns when you need your boiler most.

Research by Which? Found that around two thirds of boilers that are serviced every year never need a repair.

This number drops dramatically as you increase the time between services, so spending a bit on a boiler service could potentially save you a much bigger repair bill.

Christmas heating tip 2: Consider whether you need a boiler replacement

Depending on when you’re reading this, you might not have time for a boiler replacement before the big day itself.

But as well as writing New Year’s Resolutions for January, you might want to pencil in this investment for your home. You might like to read our related blogs: Your options with a boiler replacement and How to choose an energy efficient boiler.

There are lots of benefits of investing in an efficient new boiler, such as:

A warmer, more comfortable home;
More control of your heating with greater smart control options;
Reduced energy bills;
Reduced carbon footprint;
Peace of mind with a long guarantee;
Reduced repair costs;
Quieter operation;
More space – if switching from a conventional or system boiler to a combi boiler;
Instant hot water on demand (if switching to a combi boiler);
Meet high demands for hot water (if switching from a combi boiler to a conventional or system boiler;
A stylish new boiler that you don’t need to hide away;
Make your home more attractive to buyers.

You might like our related blogs: 6 signs that you need a new boiler and How much does a boiler cost?

For tailored advice, and to find the right size of boiler for your home, contact us today.

Christmas heating tip 3: Plan ahead and set timers

Using a timer is a great way to optimise your heating without having to actively think about it – which is particularly useful when you’re busy with Christmas parties!

A timer allows you to control when your heating and hot water comes on and when it goes off. This is handy because you can schedule your heating around your Christmas schedule.

If you’re out at a party, then you can programme the heating to switch off during that time. And if you have guests over Christmas, you can set your radiators to come on about 20 minutes before you expect they’ll wake up, so they’re nice and comfortable, whilst minimising your energy bill.

Christmas heating tip 4: Invest in a smart thermostat

A smart thermostat lets you manage your home’s heating schedule from the palm of your hand, through a tablet or smartphone.

This means that you can control your heating from your bed; the Himalayas; or the office Christmas party.

Depending on what make and model you opt for, you can choose from features such as:

multi-room control;
hot water control;
Geofencing;
weather compensation;
draught detection;
holiday mode;
feedback on your heating patterns.

Smart thermostats can detect when nobody is at home; learn your daily schedules; know when windows are opened; or the sun is shining; and adjust the heating accordingly.

All of this means that you only heat when and where it’s necessary.

Whether you’ll save money will depend on your lifestyle and how you currently control your heating, but they’ll certainly make heating your home more convenient!

Manufacturers make bold claims about the energy savings that you could make. For example, Tado claims you can save up to 31% on your energy bills with their smart thermostat. But this will only really be accurate for people who had no heating controls to start with.

To find out more, read our blog: Does smart heating save money?

Christmas heating tip 5: Only heat the rooms you need with thermostatic radiator valves

It’s a waste of energy (and money) to heat a whole house when you know that you’re only going to be using certain rooms. But there’s a solution to this – thermostatic radiator valves.

Thermostatic radiator valves or ‘TRVs’ are nifty little devices that fit on the side of your radiator and allow you to control how much heat your radiator emits, and therefore the temperature of your room.

They also allow you to switch a radiator off completely. This is great because you can set lesser used rooms to a lower temperature than your main sitting room, and you won’t waste money heating an empty guest bedroom. But if you do end up with a house guest, it’s easy enough to turn it back on.

Another option is to invest in some smart radiator valves that give you precise control of every radiator in your home straight from your smartphone.

Christmas heating tip 6: Bleed your radiators

On the subject of radiators… when was the last time you bled them?

According to the Energy Saving Trust, less than 30% of people bleed their radiators, resulting in potential cold spots in your home.

Your radiators are just as important as your boiler in keeping you toasty and warm. But when pockets of air get trapped inside them, the hot water can’t circulate properly so it takes longer to heat your home.

If you’ve noticed that your radiators are cold, or have cold spots; or are making funny noises; this might indicate that air is trapped inside them, and needs to be released.

To bleed a radiator, make sure your boiler is turned off and all the radiators are completely cold. Locate the radiator bleed valve and using either a radiator bleed screw or the tip of a screwdriver, turn it until water begins to drip out. Keep a cloth to hand so that you can catch any water. Once water starts coming out, tighten the valve back up again.

If after bleeding your radiators, they still feel cool, ask your engineer about power flushing.

Christmas heating tip 7: Tackle those draughts

A report by the Energy Saving Trust found that although 65% of people put on a jumper to stay warm indoors, only 15% draught-proof their homes.

This is a mistake because all those little holes around your house are letting cold air in and letting your warm air out.

Heat loss makes a big difference to the warmth of your home and your energy bills. So, you need to get them covered up!

Draught-proofing is one of the cheapest and most effective ways to save energy and money in your home.

It can be as simple as using heavy curtains to block draughts from windows; sealing cracks in walls and floors (with gaffer tape if need be!) ; or using draught-excluders or rolled up towels at the bottom of draughty doors.

The Energy Saving Trust say you can save about £25 per year just by draught-proofing windows and doors.

By reducing your draughts, you’ll feel warmer, so you may even be able to turn your thermostat down to save even more energy.

Check out our related blog: How to reduce heat loss at home for more tips.

Christmas heating tip 8: Make your rooms heating-friendly

As well as tackling draughts, you should take a look at your rooms and prime them for optimum heating.

You need to check that you’re not obstructing your radiator with furniture or the Christmas tree. And while you might have extra guests over the Christmas period, don’t put the extra washing on your radiators to dry – use a clothes airer instead.

Christmas heating tip 9: Turn the heating down by one degree

If you’ve read our blog: 7 Central heating myths debunked, you’ll know that 52% of people mistakenly believe that cranking up their thermostat will heat their home quicker.

This is a common misunderstanding. Turning your thermostat up will heat your home at the same speed, but you’ll just heat it past your desired temperature, wasting energy and money in the process.

Although it might seem odd to suggest you turn your thermostat down in the middle of winter, if it’s just one degree you shouldn’t notice the difference. But you will on your heating bill!

According to The Energy Saving Trust, adjusting the temperature by just one degree could save you as much as £80 a year. So, turn it down by a degree and put your Christmas jumpers and socks to use!

Tip 10: Invest in your Christmas best

We love Christmas jumpers, and since you only get to wear them for 31 days, why not follow the old-school solution to saving money on your heating and “Put a jumper on!”

Final thoughts…

We hope that you’ve found this article useful, and you can save some money this festive season.

Merry Christmas from The Heating People!

Useful links:

The Bank of England: How much do we spend at Christmas?

Which? Heating tips for cold winter weather

Energy Saving Trust: 7 Winter heating tips

Drayton Wiser: Controls for the festive season

Which? Heating tips for cold weather

Advice

What size boiler do I need?

Post author By Lucy
Post date October 26, 2021
No Comments on What size boiler do I need?

When you’re searching for a new boiler, size matters. Investing in the right size boiler will keep you and your family comfortable, without wasting energy and money.

The tricky thing is, there’s no such thing as a ‘one size fits all’ boiler. Your boiler needs to be the correct size for your particular household.

If you choose a boiler that’s too big, you’ll be wasting energy and paying over the odds on your bills. But if it’s too small; it might not be powerful enough to heat your home; or give you enough hot water.

So, you’re facing the Goldilocks conundrum of finding a boiler that’s ‘just right’.

This can be a daunting task; because there’s lots of conflicting advice out there; and unlike Goldilocks, you can’t try them all out.

But fear not, because The Heating People pride ourselves on finding the perfect boiler to fit your needs and budget.

If you want to gain a better understanding of how different types of boilers are sized, this blog’s for you!

You might also like our related blogs: Your options with a boiler replacement and 6 top tips for buying a new boiler.

What is the best practice for choosing a size of boiler?

This might come as a surprise, given the number of boiler finding ‘calculators’ you’ll see online. But counting radiators is NOT the answer! This is completely inaccurate.

The correct way to size a boiler is through a whole house heat loss calculation. This is the industry standard for sizing boilers under Part L of the Energy Efficiency Regulations.

These regulations provide guidance on the conservation of fuel and power under The Building Regulations Act 2010.

This Energy Efficiency Best Practice requires that heat loss calculations be conducted before a boiler is installed.

Rest assured, that The Heating People conduct heat loss calculations as standard.

Should I just get the same size boiler as I have currently?

No. Whilst it seems logical to use the size of your current boiler as a guide; it should be just that; a starting point in beginning your choice.

A boiler is a significant investment, and it’s important you get it right. You’ll be expecting your boiler to work hard for you around the clock for at least the next ten years.

Simply assuming that you need the same again, could be a costly mistake. Lots of circumstances have probably changed since your old boiler was installed. And it might have been incorrectly sized years ago, when it was first installed.

What is the problem with oversizing a boiler?

When it comes to boiler sizing, bigger isn’t necessarily better. Despite what manufacturer’s boasting their 50kW combi boilers seem to have you believe! Whilst it can be tempting to oversize the boiler, ‘just in case’, this is a mistake.

If you choose a larger boiler that has a much higher capacity than you need; you’ll be wasting money not only on the initial purchase; but also on escalating energy bills.

Too much power isn’t a good thing when it comes to central heating. It’s inefficient; costly; and can generate more power than your central heating system can handle; which will take its toll on your boiler.

Oversized boilers heat up too quickly; run for a short time; and then will turn off; before the cycle starts again.

This constant stop-starting, or ‘boiler cycling’ uses more fuel, costing you money on bills; and potentially on repairs and replacements.

What is the problem with undersizing a boiler?

Too small isn’t a good thing either. If you try to save money by choosing a smaller boiler than you and your family actually need; you’ll find that you’re feeling the chill; and running out of hot water, because your undersized boiler can’t keep up with your demands.

How is boiler size measured?

Boiler size doesn’t refer to the physical dimensions of the appliance itself; but rather how much energy is output by the boiler in terms of heat. This is measured in kilowatts (kW).

A kilowatt is equal to 1,000 watts. This unit helps us to measure the power your boiler can provide to your heating system.

For example, a 25kW boiler uses 25,000 watts (25 kW) of power per hour; to heat the water for your central heating.

Generally, the more heat and hot water you require for your home, the higher the kW boiler you will need. But the type of boiler you have will affect this.

If you have a heat-only or a system boiler; the boiler size will be based on the heat requirements of your property.

For combi boilers, the size of the boiler you need looks ‘bigger’. This is because it produces instantaneous hot water on demand, rather than storing it.

Does a Higher kW Boiler Cost More to Run?

As you would expect, the larger your heating and hot water demands; the larger the size or kW boiler you will need, and the more it will cost to run.

This is one of the reasons why you’ll want to avoid choosing an oversized boiler for your home.

The 3 types of boiler available

There are three main types of boilers (heat-only or conventional, combi and system).

Within these types of boilers, different sizes are available to cater for different household demands – and the type of boiler helps to determine the correct sizing.

● Heat-only or conventional boilers

Heat-only boilers provide heating and hot-water, with the use of an additional cold-water tank and hot-water cylinder.

These boilers need a large feed tank which is usually stored in an attic or loft. This tank receives cold water from the mains and feeds it down to your boiler.

Once the fuel has been ignited; the heat exchanger warms water; which is then transported to the hot-water cylinder by a pump.

This stored hot-water is then sent to your taps and radiators when you need it.

These boilers work well in large households with multiple bathrooms. They can supply large amounts of hot water to multiple outlets at the same time.

● Combi boilers

‘Combi’ is short for ‘combination’ boiler because it provides both your heating and hot water from one all-in-one (combined) unit.

Combi boilers don’t need any external tanks or cylinders. They heat water directly from the mains when you turn on a hot tap.

They typically have two heat exchangers, one for your heating (radiators) and the other for your hot water supply.

The primary heat exchanger focuses on your radiators and carries hot water around your home. The secondary exchanger is for heating the water that comes out of your taps.

● System boilers

System boilers feature aspects of both a conventional boiler and a combi.

Like a heat-only boiler; a system boiler needs a hot water storage cylinder to heat and store hot water for your taps.

But it doesn’t need a tank in the attic. Like a Combi; it takes its water supply directly from the mains.

Since there is a large store of hot water always available; a steady supply can be maintained even if multiple taps or showers are in use at the same time.

Why are the different types of boilers sized differently?

Heat-only and system boilers operate differently from combi boilers. So the way in which we choose the correct size of each, must reflect this.

Heat-only and system boilers only have a central heating output because they store the domestic hot water in a cylinder.

Therefore, these types of boilers are sized using a heat-loss calculation, which establishes the heat requirements of your home.

Combi boilers work differently, because they directly provide central heating and domestic hot water on demand; so they have two separate output ratings: Central heating (CH) output and Domestic hot water (DHW) output.

Whilst heat-loss calculations are still relevant for sizing a combi boiler; the main factor in determining their size, is hot water demand.

Why do combi boilers have higher kW than system and conventional boilers?

For combi boilers, the size of the boiler you need in kW looks ‘bigger’ than for heat-only and system boilers. This is because of the way in which combis work.

It doesn’t mean that combi boilers are less efficient than their counterparts.

Combi boilers need more power because they heat up the hot water on demand; rather than storing hot water in a cylinder for later use.

A combi boiler will only be using this maximum power when it’s producing hot water for your hot taps; baths; and showers.

Is a larger size boiler always better for bigger homes?

Although larger homes will generally have a higher demand for heating and hot water; it doesn’t necessarily mean that a bigger boiler is required.

In the past, the physical size of your property and the number of radiators you had; was used to determine boiler size. And you’ll probably find a lot of installers still using this crude method. But this is inaccurate, and doesn’t follow the industry standard under Part L of the Energy Efficiency Regulations.

To illustrate the inaccuracy of this approach; imagine that there are two neighbouring houses of the same physical size; and each having exactly the same number of radiators as the other.

One house is very old with single glazed windows, and no insulation. The other house is a modern new-build with double glazing and lots of insulation.

The first draughty old house will lose its heat very quickly; and will need much more power from a boiler to keep it warm.

Conversely, the second house will lose its heat much more slowly; and will therefore need less power from a boiler to keep it warm.

And it wouldn’t matter if we installed more radiators either. The boilers would still need to output the same amount of power to match the heat loss.

Heat loss not home size!

So, it isn’t the size of your home; or the number of radiators it has; that matters when it comes to choosing the size of your boiler.

To provide enough heat to your rooms; the heating system output must be greater than the heat loss.

Therefore, a boiler shouldn’t be installed unless a heat-loss calculation has been conducted.

And this is why heat loss calculations are the industry standard for sizing boilers; under Part L of the Energy Efficiency Regulations.

The Heating People always conduct a heat loss calculation before we recommend the size of boiler you require.

Sizing a boiler: Heat loss calculations

So here’s the science… Heat loss calculations work out a building’s heat transfer coefficient. They look at the thermal transmittance or ‘U-values’ of all of the external fabric of the building; along with its volume and average ventilation rate.

This provides the total space heating energy flow rate in watts; divided by the temperature difference between the inside and outside air.

Or, in layman’s terms; a heat loss calculation determines how quickly heat can escape out of the fabric of your property.

Different properties are built using different methods, materials, and levels of insulation; all of which affect the rate at which heat transfers through them.

As in our previous example; a draughty old house with no insulation and single glazing; will have a high U-value, indicating poor thermal performance.

Whereas the new-build with double glazing and plenty of insulation, will have a low U-value, indicating good thermal performance. Even altitude and exposure will impact this.

A heat loss calculation works out how much heat your home will lose on the coldest day of the year; which allows us to advise you on the optimum size of boiler for your needs.

How much heat can be lost from a building?

Whether we like it or not, all buildings lose heat. The Climate Change Committee says: “UK housing stock is one of the oldest and worst insulated in Europe; with 38% of homes built before 1946 and only 15% since the 1990s.”

As such, according to the Energy Savings Trust:

25% of your heat can be lost through the roof;
35% through outside walls;
25% through doors and windows; and
15% can be lost through ground floors.

Insulating and draught-proofing your home is one of the best ways of reducing your home’s heat loss. And then sizing your boiler correctly will ensure that you always have adequate heat.

How do The Heating People perform heat loss calculations?

We always perform a whole house heat loss calculation to determine the correct size boiler for your home.

Our whole house heat loss calculation is included as standard as part of your quote for a boiler replacement.

It is conducted as part of your survey, and only takes about ten minutes on site. We use heat engineer software to size gas or oil boilers.

For more detailed calculations for renewable energy systems; or if your house is borderline between two boiler sizes; we can complete a room by room cross calculation for a more accurate result.

What is a whole house heat loss calculation?

With a whole house heat loss calculation, we will:

measure the outside of your building;
record what the fabric of your building is made from;
count the number of skylights you have;
look at how many stories your home has;
measure the height of the stories of your home;
record the location of your home and the altitude.

Our standard heat loss calculation is based on an indoor temperature of 21°C.

The outdoor temperature varies depending on the altitude and location of your home. In Merseyside and most of Cheshire the outdoor temperature for our calculations would be -2.2°C.

What is a room-by-room heat loss calculation?

The room-by-room method of heat loss calculations is much more detailed and is a separate chargeable service. It takes up to two hours on site, and is then completed away from site on a desktop computer.

With room-by-room calculations, we start with the same basic information as for the whole house calculations. But we then measure each room, window, door and skylight individually.

This allows us to consider small variations in building fabric, for example, where some walls have been insulated, but others haven’t.

Sizing a combi boiler

Although heat loss is still a relevant factor in determining the correct size of combi boiler; the most significant factor when sizing a combi is its hot water performance, rather than space heating.

This is because unlike heat-only and system boilers; combis don’t store hot water, so they need to have enough power to meet your hot water demands.

How do I work out what my hot water demand is?

When thinking about how much hot water you need from your central heating system; a good starting point is looking at how many bathrooms you have.

Generally, homes with multiple bathrooms have a higher hot water demand, and therefore a larger boiler size is needed.

The number of bathrooms you have will not only affect the boiler size; but also the recommended type of boiler for your home.

If you have two or more bathrooms; a heat-only or system boiler is probably a better choice than a combi boiler.

This is because combi boilers don’t store hot water. And a combi’s hot water flow rate is reduced if two showers are running simultaneously.

Since heat-only and system boilers store hot water in a cylinder; they can supply multiple outlets at the same time; without the hot water flow rate being affected.

How do you use your hot water?

Now this doesn’t mean that you can’t have lots of hot showers with a combi boiler, quite the opposite!

A combi will never run out of hot water because it heats water instantly on demand; unlike heat-only and system boilers, that might run out of hot water for a short time while the cylinder refills.

So, this is where it’s important to consider how you use the hot water in your home.

If showers are taken consecutively in the morning, a combi will be fine. But if you want multiple showers on at the same time, a heat-only or system boiler will often be the best choice.

The Heating People will be able to advise you on what size will be just right for your home after completing a survey and a heat-loss calculation. But here is a rough size guide:

24 – 30 kW Combi

Suitable to provide heating and hot water to a home with one bathroom. If you have an en suite with an electric shower, this size of boiler will still be suitable.

30-36 kW Combi

Suitable for homes with two bathrooms.

For larger homes with more than two bathrooms, a storage combination boiler or stored hot water should be considered. Although larger Combi boilers are available, they’re often not the best solution.

We hope that you’ve found this blog useful. For tailored advice on finding the correct size boiler for your needs, contact us today to book your free survey.

Useful Links:

A study for the Climate Change Committee to inform the 6th carbon budget

Report by the Climate Change Committee on heat in buildings

Domestic heating sizing method by the Energy Saving Trust

Government factsheet on Boiler Plus

Heat in Buildings – Government Consultation Paper on Boiler Plus

0151 792 6245

Why are you looking for a new boiler?

What type of boiler do I need?

Heat-only boilers

Combi Boilers

System Boilers

What brand of boiler?

What size boiler do I need?

Size with a heat loss calculation

Rough guide to boiler size

How much does it cost to install a new boiler?

What’s involved in a new boiler installation?

Survey

Quotation

Booking

Arrival of the engineer at your home

Protecting your home

Draining your old system

Test the gas for leaks

Removal of the old boiler

Flush and clean

Upgrade and change pipework if required

Making good

Fitting the boiler

Controls

Commissioning of the system

Handover

Register the boiler

How long does it take to install a new boiler?

Final thoughts…

How Long Does a Boiler Last?

Signs that you need a new boiler

1. Your boiler is old

2. Your old boiler isn’t A-rated

3. Your boiler isn’t performing like it used to

Your radiators are taking ages to warm up

You keep running out of hot water

Your boiler has suddenly stopped producing hot water

4. Your boiler is frequently breaking down

5. Your boiler or radiators are noisy

6. Your boiler is leaking

7. Your energy bills are increasing without explanation

Should I repair or replace my boiler?

How much will a new boiler cost?

Final thoughts

Useful Links

1. The ATAG iC Economiser Plus

What are the other key features of the iC Economiser?

Highly reputable company that is loved by customers

iCon stainless steel heat exchanger

Guarantee of up to 14 years

Excellent energy efficiency

More efficient with third party smart controls

Weather compensation

Available in three sizes

2. The Vaillant ecoTEC exclusive with green iQ

What are the other key features of the ecoTEC exclusive?

Highly reputable company that is loved by customers

Excellent energy efficiency

FGHRS

Green iQ

Quiet mark approved

Guarantee of up to 10 years

Available in two combi models covering 35 or 43kW output

3. The Vaillant ecoTEC plus

What are the other key features of the ecoTEC plus?

Available in four combi models

Guarantee of up to 10 years

Quiet mark approved

User friendly

4. The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000

What are the other key features of the Greenstar 4000?

Highly reputable company that is loved by customers

10 year guarantee

Excellent energy efficiency

Stylish

User friendly LCD control panel

Available in 25 kw and 30kw combi boilers

5. The Worcester Bosch Greenstar 8000 Life

What are the other key features of the Greenstar 8000 Life?